The Lonely Planet guide to exploring Wadi Rum

In the southern part of JordanWadi Rum is a stretch of desert that captivates with its vibrant colors and ethereal rock formations. Long cherished as an ancient crossroads linked by certain scholars to “Iram of the Pillars” and the Quran’s lost tribe of AdWadi Rum first gained worldwide fame with its portrayal in the classic 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia. Since thenWadi Rum has become one of Hollywood’s favorite filming locations for sci-fi moviesincluding 2012’s Prometheus2015’s The MartianDune – parts one (2021) and two (2024) – and multiple Star Wars films.

Though the Wadi Rum desert is now an official protected areavisitors are welcome to come and explore this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Don’t expect name-brand resorts and touristy stores like Aqaba hasbut do prepare to be wowed by the dramatic natural beauty and rich Bedouin culture that make Wadi Rum the ideal place to experience real slices of authentic Jordanian life.

When should I go to Wadi Rum?

For the fewest crowds and lowest pricesJanuary and February are the best months to visit. If you do go during the winter monthsprepare for some cold weatherand maybe even some snow at higher elevations near the Saudi Arabia border.

The summer months of June and July typically mark another slow season for Wadi Rum. But if you decide to visit during this timeyou’ll likely need to schedule most of your activities early in the morning or during the evening hoursas daytime highs often surge past 100°F (or 37°C).

The spring months of March and April and the autumn months of September and October tend to provide the best weather for Wadi Rumbut these are also the region’s busiest times of the year. If you’re hoping to hit the “sweet spot” of fewer crowds and nicer weatheraim for the shoulder seasons that occur late in February and during November.

How much time should I spend at Wadi Rum?

If you just want to hit key landmarks like Khazali Siq (Khazali Canyon)Jebel Umm Al Ishrin and the Al Hasany Dunesan overnight camping trip should provide enough time to reach the places you most want to see. Most visitors opt for a four-wheel drive truck (4WD) tour with a Bedouin driver and guide to cover maximum groundalong with an overnight stay at a Wadi Rum campto experience the desert at its most enchanting.

For those seeking a longer adventure and a deeper exploration of Wadi Rumlocal Bedouin have recently established the roughly 75-mile (or 120km) Wadi Rum Trail for a more comprehensive and enriching journey. This trail twists through the protected area in a 10-day circuit that covers major highlights from Jebel Rum and Wadi Rum Village in the north to Umm ad-Dami in the south. Visit the Wadi Rum Trail’s website to connect with local Bedouin guidesbook a hiking journeyand even plan ahead to ensure all necessary supplies will arrive at camp just before you do.

How do I get to Wadi Rum?

The closest airport to Wadi Rum is King Hussein International Airport in Aqaba. King Hussein has regular flights to and from Jordan’s capital city of Ammanas well as a few direct flights to and from Cairo (Egypt) and Istanbul (Türkiye). From AqabaJETT offers a daily bus ride to Wadi Rumand it’s possible to find some local buses running to Wadi Rum.

If you’re doing a Wadi Rum tour with an official operatorcheck ahead with your tour operatoras they may include private car transfers or taxi rides between Aqaba and Wadi Rum. If you prefer to drive yourselfyou can rent a car at King Hussein Airport and do the roughly hour-long drive from Aqaba to Wadi Rum. (Just make sure to take the turn off the highway at Rashidiya to reach Wadi Rum Visitor Center.)

Getting around in Wadi Rum

Though it’s generally a good idea to do Wadi Rum with an experienced tour guideit is possible to do it yourself. Dropping in at the Wadi Rum Visitor Center to register your arrival is always advisedand it’s strictly required if camping overnight or exploring in your own 4WD vehicle.

At the Visitor Centeryou can check for available toursfrom a two-hour journey to Khazali Canyon to a full-day circuit around the protected area. By defaultthese tend to trace an established pair of loops through the reserve: Operator One follows the central approach to the southcovering Wadi Rum’s corewhile Operator Two wraps around the ridge eastward to explore more outlying but similarly stunning terrain.

If you prefer to drive yourselfyou will need an all-terrain vehicleand you will have to register at the Visitor Center. From the Visitor Centerhead south to Wadi Rum Village for a (relatively) compact collection of shops and cafes alongside the Wadi Rum Rest House. Around the corner to the rightat the foot of Jebel Rumare the 2,000-year-old ruins of a Nabatean templededicated to the goddess Allator Lat. A trail just south of here climbs through thickets of mint to the oasis of “Lawrence’s Spring” known to Bedouin as Ain Ash Shallalah.

The tarmac ends just to the south of Wadi Rum Villagebut you can venture onward to reach the next set of springs at Ain Abu Ainehthen farther south to the Jebel Khazali monolith. From Jebel Khazalihead east to reach landmarks like the Nabatean ruins at Lawrence’s Housethe Little Rock BridgeMushroom Rock and Barrah Canyon. From Barrah Canyongo north to reach the beautiful Makaharas Canyonthe Seven Pillars of Wisdom rock formation made world-famous by Lawrence of Arabiaand the aptly named Sunset Viewing Point. From the Sunset Viewing Pointit’s usually less than a 15-minute drive back to the Visitor Center.

What to look out for in the Wadi Rum Protected Area

Near the southeastern corner of Wadi Rum Protected Areajust beyond Abu Khashaba Canyonyou will find the more remote and impressive Umm Fruth and Burdah Rock Bridges. The former is another quickstraightforward climbwhile the latter entails a several-hour hike.

Further southyou will cross the white sands to reach the rugged Jebel Hash. Continuing still furtherNuqra Canyon overlooks the edge of the reservewith sweeping views across the desolate Wadi Sabet. In the distanceyou’ll make out the crags of Jebel Umm ad-Dami.

Heading towards the northeastern corner of the Protected Arealook out for clusters of indigenous petroglyphssuch as the Anfashieh (or Anfaishiyya) and Alameleh Inscriptions that offer some of the most comprehensive and best-preserved depictions of Thamudic and Nabataean life (including camel caravans and hunting feats). Back at the Wadi Rum Visitor Centerdon’t skip the museum: It does a great job of providing context on the history and natural environment of Wadi Rumusually within a 30-minute visit.

Top things to do in Wadi Rum

Explore Wadi Rum Village

Wadi Rum Village has the area’s central cluster of shops and restaurants. It’s the perfect launchpad to reach the towering sandstone and granite mountain at Jebel Rum. In additionthe village places you close to key landmarks like the Anfashieh Inscriptions and Lawrence’s Spring.

Stargazing

The desert’s high altitudeclear skies and low light pollution make it especially ideal for gazing up at the cosmos. Indeeda night in Wadi Rum often tops lists of travelers’ most cherished memories in Jordan – whether camping in an air-conditioned poda classic Rum camp or the most basic of bivouacs: simply spreading a mat on the sand.

Planning tip: For the best stargazing conditions visit in JulyAugust and September. The Perseid meteor shower typically peaks around mid-Augustand Wadi Rum is a phenomenal place to catch it.

Hiking

The Protected Area has plenty of excellent hikes to choose fromsome within easy striking distance of the Visitor Center and Wadi Rum Village. From the Visitor Centerthe unguided loop through Makharas Canyon takes roughly 2½ hours. From the villagethe scramble through Rakhabat Canyon (known among Bedouin as Um Ejil) is a half-day affair that rounds the southern tip of Umm Ishrin on the easy return across sand. Further afield is the easy half-hour walk through Abu Khashabah Canyonand just further southeast the moderatethree-hour climb to Jebel Burdah provides eye-watering vistas over the Khor al Ajram.

Another classic route is the two-hour walk through Barrah Canyon to the northa three-mile corridor cutting through the heartland of Rum in the shadows of pyramid-shaped peaks. Jebel Rumbeloved by climbersalso boasts a number of hiking and scrambling routesamong the best a challengingfull-day circumambulation of its southern half. Deep in the silent south is a further pair of easier yet rewarding hikes: Jebel Hash near the Protected Area’s edgeand Umm ad-Dami near the Saudi border.

Planning tip: While you can probably do the short hikes around Wadi Rum Village on your ownit’s always a good idea to go with a guide if you’re planning hiking excursions into more challenging terrain like Rakhabat Canyon and the Jebel Burdah Rock Bridge. Even if you decide to stick to easier routes that don’t require a guideyou need to stop at the Visitor Center and register before you hit the trail.

Camel trekking

There’s no more time-honored nor sustainable way to experience the rhythms of the desert than by camel. Camels remain a fixture of Bedouin life and most Bedouin families have at least one camel.

Like 4WD tripscamel excursions can be arranged in advance or at the Visitor Centerwhere per-person pricing is listed for various distances covered – from the walk to Ain Abu Aineh (listed as Lawrence’s Spring; JD10 (US$14) for two hours to the overnight trek to the foot of Jebel Burdah (for JD60 ( US$85). It’s well worth covering the cost of an additional camel for your guide so that you can steer your own camel rather than having it led.

Rock climbing

Since antiquityWadi Rum’s residents have managed to scale its sheer cliff faces in pursuit of ibex or medicinal plants. These daysmodern climbers come equipped with ropes and carabiners to reach the top of Wadi Rum’s wondrous rock formations and enjoy the views from above.

With its sheer eastern face conveniently rising just behind the villageJebel Rum is among the area’s most outstanding and conveniently located climbs. In partits approaches trace the Thamudic Wayone of the oldest trails in the worldand it’s typically combined with a bivouac near the summit prior to a multi-pitch abseiling descent. Other excellent climbs not to miss are found on the slopes of Jebel BurdahJebel BarrahKhazali Siq and Umm Ishrin.

Planning tip: Book ahead to secure the services of the area’s most experienced guidesthe IFMGA-qualified crew at Wadi Rum Jordan Guide.

What to know about camps in Wadi Rum

In the pastthe Wadi Rum Protected Area had a few rustic campsites for the most adventurous explorers to rough it out in the open desert. These daysyou can still opt for a more classicBedouin- camp comprising a huddle of cubictwo- to four-person tentseach furnished with basic beds and linenalong with a separate block of shared toilets and showers fitted with solar-powered heaters. A night at one of these starts around JD26 (US$36) per person and includes breakfast. Usuallythey will also serve a traditional Bedouin dinner – typically zarb (or Jordanian- barbeque) cooked under the sand and served in a largecommon tent. Return transport from the village is generally included as well.

If you prefer more creature comfortsWadi Rum also has a growing inventory of luxury glamping options. While they’re not a perfect match for the posh contemporary resorts of Aqabathese Wadi Rum luxury glamping sites do offer larger tents with full en-suite bathrooms (including showers)queen or king-size bedsindividual air conditioning unitsand sometimes even coffee machines and teapots inside. All this luxury doesn’t come cheap - think JD142 (US$200) per night minimum – but the extra cost might be worth it if you want to do a Wadi Rum overnight stay and enjoy the stay in your tent.

Top planning tips

• The Wadi Rum Visitor Center’s ATM is your last chance for withdrawing cash. Vendors prefer to be paid in Jordanian dinars.

• Provided it’s not too hotcold or rainyopt for bench-seating in the back of your 4WDthen hold tight for a bumpy yet very scenic ride. Once you’re ready to leave the 4WD tracks behindtake a hike in the lonely silence of a siq (canyon) or on a windswept summit.

• To catch the most striking colors and beat the worst of the heatget an early morning start on any hikes or other physically demanding activities. This wayyou can enjoy an afternoon rest during the hottest hours of the daythen set out again when the temperature starts to cool down.

• Make sure to book tours and camps that are actually based in Wadi Rumas some “Wadi Rum” tours arranged elsewhere in Jordan might have you stay at a camp outside the protected area in Diseh and provide little time (if any) to explore within the protected area.

• No matter where you stay at Wadi Rumalways make sure to dress modestly and show respect for local Bedouin customs and culture.

Nearby attractions

The desert north of Diseh

Dozens of Bedouin camps are nestled in the crags surrounding the town of Diseh on all sidesfrom the northeastern fringes of the Protected Area to the foot of Jebel Armud across the sands to the north. These offer a range of bases for exploring this spectacular swathe of desert. You can start by heading north of Shakriyeha village about six miles west of Disehwhere a worthy answer to Wadi Rum’s Mushroom Rock marks the entrance to a valley embellished with inscriptions. Tracing the honeycomb cliffs of Abu Rashrasha will bring you to the Valley of Colorswhere a summit of sand around the ridge to the east offers panoramic views.

Remotely set about five miles north of the Valley of Colors is the area’s gem: Jebel Kharazeh (not to be confused with Kharazeh Canyon inside the Wadi Rum Protected Area)where a pair of giantbut scalablenatural rock bridges arch over the desert floor. More petroglyphs speckle the elephantine ramps that burrow into the sands of the Hisma herewhile there’s a third and smaller arch nearbyas well as the ruins of a Nabatean cistern.

Hejaz Railway

Among Diseh’s unique activities is a bout of time travel aboard a refurbished Hejaz Railway train. During the Great Arab Revolt of 1916Prince Faisal’s forces launched dozens of explosive raids to sever this linea vital link for Turkish communications and supplies. Nowadayssemi-weekly re-enactments (usually on Sundays and Wednesdays) arranged by the Jordan Heritage Revival Company revive the old locomotive for an hour. The passengers sit among armed and uniformed Ottoman soldiersnervously eyeing the hills for lurking rebels poised for an ambush.

The desert from above in a hot-air balloon

An utterly rousing perspective of Southern Jordan’s otherworldly desert landscape is one from the basket of a hot-air balloon. Pick-up from Wadi Rum Village or the Visitor Center is generally an hour and a half before sunrisebut rest assured thatweather permittingyou’ll be amply rewarded for the early rise. Whisked to the launch siteyou’ll watch with coffee or tea in hand as a gas jet flame lights the sky. After the safety instructionyou’ll lift off the sand to be greeted with a sunrise view that you won’t soon forget.

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Jordan guidebookpublished in December 2024.