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Montenegro packs so much into a small areait still surprises me it’s not on more people’s radars. Its gorgeous Adriatic coastline has secludedrocky coves and great swathes of sandy beachesbeautifully preserved medieval towns and one of the most dramatic natural inlets anywhere on the Mediterranean. Inlandyou’ll find ruggedspectacular mountainswhich at times seem like they’ve been piled one on top of the othersheer-sided canyonspristine forestsand vast watery wetlands rich in birdlife – all of which make Montenegro a dream destination for an adventure holidaybe that hikingcyclingkayaking or wild swimming.

There’s plenty of delicious Balkan cuisine to enjoyand some lip-smackingly good wine too. It’s also good value compared to Italy and Croatia.

So whether you’re after cultureadventuresand and sunepic hikingunforgettable views or simply a corner of Europe that can still feel a little bit off the mapyou’ve come to the right place. Here's everything you should know to help you plan your trip.

People visit a small church on an islet in the middle of a large fjord-like bay — Our Lady of the Rocks in the Bay of Kotor. Julian Love/Lonely Planet

When should I go to Montenegro?

Montenegro is a year-round destinationfrom sun-soaked summers on the Adriatic coast to pleasantbalmy weather in spring and autumn (with average temperatures hovering around 18°C/64°F) and skiing in winter. On balancethe best times to visit are late spring or early summerand autumnwhen you’ll find a nice mix between sunny dayslower accommodation prices and fewer crowds. July and August are the hottest (30°C/86°F) and busiest monthsparticularly on the coastwhile November tends to see some of the heaviest rainfall.

If you’re hikingthe picture is slightly different. The hiking season in the mountains of Montenegro runs from mid-June to early October. Come any earlier and you can expect snow on passescome later and you might find yourself caught in the first snowfall of the coming winter.

How much time should I spend in Montenegro?

Allow a week to see highlights along the coastor (infinitely preferable) two weeks to see the coast plus some of the spectacular landscapes and national parks further inland. Throw in a multiday hike and you could easily spend more time here. YesMontenegro is a small country and you can get from one side to the other fairly quicklybut this is a country tailor-made for slow travelso you’ll have a much more authentic and rewarding experience if you slow down to match.

Two inflatable boats fully loaded with passengers in life vests make their way along a river near banks covered in greenery — Rafting in the Tara Canyon. Andrew Mayovskyy/Shutterstock

Is it easy to get in and around Montenegro?

The main airport lies 11km (7 miles) from Podgorica’s city center. Buses run between Podgorica’s main bus station and the airport – although the bus service has been known to disappear in the past. You can book a taxi through Welcome Pickupswhich will cost €15–20 (US$17–$23)otherwise you’ll also find taxis waiting outside the airportwhich are likely to charge around €25 (US$28).

Alternativelymore intrepid and budget-conscious travelers can take the local train. This is perfectly straightforwardtakes just seven minutes (plus a short walk) and costs €1.20 (US$1.35). From the main railway station in Podgorica (behind the bus station)take a train towards Bari and get off at Aerodrom. The station is just over 1km (0.6 miles) from the airport terminal buildingit looks more like a shed than a stationand the trains have seen better daysbut they will get you between the city and the airport nonetheless. Cross the railway tracks and follow the road east – it’s a 15-minute walk from the station to the airport.

Montenegro has another airport at Tivat on the coastand ferries run between the port of Bar and Italy. Land borders with CroatiaBosnia Serbia and Albania mean you can easily reach Montenegro from these countries by car or by bike. Getting around Montenegro by public transportation is easy enough – the bus station in Podgorica has services to KotorBudvaŽabljak and Plav for exampleand there are plenty of minibuses running along the coast.

City walls and steps lead up to a view over a lakeside city — The walled medieval city of KotorMontenegro. Gilmanshin/Shutterstock

Top things to do in Montenegro

Visit the city of Kotora UNESCO World Heritage Site

No city in Montenegro makes more of an impression than Kotor, a beautifully preserved walled medieval citywhich has atmosphere in spades. It gives the better-known Croatian city of Dubrovnik to the northwest a decent run for its money.

Clinging to the shore of the Bay of Kotor beneath soaring crags bristling with fortificationsKotor’s UNESCO-listed old town center is a jumble of narrow streets and alleysenclosed by wallsand punctuated by spacious piazzas and handsome Venetian- palacesbijou churches and a large imposing cathedral. It’s a place to wander the meandering streetsstop for a coffee at a small cafe or barand linger for as long as possible. Follow the steps at the back of the old town (take water and a sunhat!)which lead up alongside the fortifications to the staggeringly photogenic little Church of Our Lady of Remedy (Crkva Gospe od Zdravlja)with the terracotta tiled roofs of the old town clustered below (and doubtless a large cruise ship docking not far away).

A small chalet in a mountain region on a sunny day — Durmitor National Park. Zebra-Studio / Shutterstock

Hike through Durmitor National Park

Montenegro’s best-known national park, Durmitor, is a stupendously impressive jumble of rocky mountainslakes and cragswith enough trails to keep most keen hikers busy for daysif not weeks. It’s also home to the spectacularly deep Tara Canyonone of the best places in Montenegro for white water rafting.

The gateway to Durmitor is the little town of Žabljakwhich makes a good base for day walks in the hillsor the main starting point for longer treks. For a very short walkit’s hard to beat Crno jezero (Black Lake)a ridiculously photogenic spot just outside Žabljakwith the nearby mountain peaks reflected in its surface. Or head for Curevac (you can easily reach the nearby parking spot by e-bike from Žabljak) from where there are dramatic views down into the depths of the Tara Canyon.

For longer trips head for Bobotov Kukone of the country’s highest mountains – some scrambling skills and a decent head for heights are required here – or to Škrčko jezero. Remember to take adequate water (this is limestone countryso you’ll find very few springs)and suitable clothing. The weather in the mountains of Montenegro is famously fickle and capable of changing dramatically.

Witness and birdlife and impressive landscapes Lake Skadar

The largest lake in the Balkansstraddling the border between Montenegro and AlbaniaLake Skadar (Skadarsko jezero) is a vastwatery wilderness surrounded by mountains and reed-bedswith spectacular birdlife including Dalmatian pelicansan amazingly beautiful and unique landscape in Montenegro and also one of the most important wetland areas in southeast Europe. Head to the tiny town of Virpazar and join a local boat trip on the lakedine on local freshwater fishand enjoy wine from the nearby Crmnica wine regionwhich produces some of Montenegro’s best wines.

A white monastery building built into the side of a cliff — Ostrog monasterybuilt into the side of a cliff. Tatiana Popova/Shutterstock

Visit a cliff-side monastery

OstrogMontenegro’s best-known monastery – a sight you’re unlikely to forget in a hurry – is set within a cliff face high above the valley floor. It’s a 3km (2-mile) walk up to the cave-church from the lower monasterya route that pilgrims follow barefootalthough that’s certainly not compulsory for other visitors. Taxis cover the route from Nikšič to the Lower Monasteryor you can drive from Danilovgrad. Ostrog is still a working monasteryso dress conservatively when visiting the site.

Explore the Bay of Kotor

The most beautiful part of Montenegro’s Adriatic coastlinethe Bay of Kotor (Boka Kotorska) is a deeply indentedfjord-like inletsurrounded by a wall of mountains – though it’s worth sayingit’s not actually a fjorddespite what many descriptions would have you believe.

Its twinanvil-shaped wings are entered through a narrow channelwhich is itself separated from the open sea by another body of waterthe Tivatski zaliv. For the best viewshead to Perasta small seaside village overlooking the little islands of Our Lady of the Rocks (Gospa od Škrpjela) and St George (Sveti Đorđe) – the former an artificial island with a churchthe latter a natural rocky islet with a monastery. Boats take passengers over to the islands from Perast. The other stellar view – in truththere are many more – is from Vrmacthe ridge dividing the Bay of Kotor from the Tivatski zaliv.

A hilltop citadell with ancient walls — The ruined citadel in Stari Bar near the modern town of Bar. Elizaveta Galitckaia/Shutterstock

Visit the ruins of Stari Bar

Stari Bar (Old Bar) is a beautifully atmospheric set of ruinssome 4km (2.5 miles) inland from the modern port of Barset in the olive-clad foothills of Mt Rumija. The main reason for coming hereaside from the view of the walled old townis the stretch of little restaurants and cafes in the rambling cobbled street alongside it. Duck into one of these and tuck into delicious Montenegrin and Albanian cuisineor just sip a Turkish coffee and watch the world go by.

My favorite thing to do in Montenegro

It’s the mountains that always draw me back to Montenegro. From the first time I saw a photo of the view from Bobotov kuklooking down across the vivid blue of Škrčko jezero surrounded by steep-sided mountains and vertiginous scree slopes – it was an old postcardpinned to the wall of a Croatian hiking club – I was hooked. Few places can claim so much jaw-dropping mountain sceneryand such a wealth of fantastic hiking routeswithin such a small area.

Some all-time favorites would be the trans-border Peaks of the Balkans trail in the Prokletije mountainsthe rugged peaks of central Durmitorthe Komovi peaks on the Albanian borderand Rumijawhich might not be very high but has genuinely epic views across Lake Skadar on one side and the Adriatic coast on the other.

A small island-village reached from the mainland via a spit of sand — Sveti Stefan islandone of Montenegro's most expensive places to visit. Sergii Figurnyi/Shutterstock

How much money do I need for Montenegro?

Montenegro can be very good valuewith prices that are generally much lower than neighboring Croatia – although having said thatprices on the coast especially in Kotor and Budva have crept up much more in recent yearsand there are some places (Sfeti Stefan comes to mind) where the prices can only be described as eye-watering and a little absurd. Cards are widely accepted but expect to pay in cash at cafesmarket stalls and on local buses.