An essential guide to the Falkland Islands

Even though the Falkland Islands – one of the UK’s southernmost overseas territories – briefly came to global prominence in 1982 after its sovereignty was contested by Argentinathey aren’t on the radar for most travelers. This South Atlantic archipelago consists of more than 700 islandsis about the size of Connecticut (or half the size of Wales)and is home to some 3200 peoplehalf a million sheep and a million penguins.

Visitors will find desertedpristine beaches of sugary-white sand lapped by cold cerulean waterswith black-and-white Commerson’s dolphins playing in the surf; bleakly beautifultreeless landscapes; shipwreck and plane wreck sites; and elephant seal colonies. Venture to this remote and fascinating destination to unravel the islands’ mystique for yourself.

Stanley and East Falkland

On one of the two largest islandsEast Falklandthe compactappealing capital of Stanleyhome to much of the islands’ populationis an attraction in its own right and a good place to base yourself for several days. Check out the excellent Historic Dockyard Museum and the Whalebone Arch in front of the cathedral; do a day tour to Volunteer Point to see the world’s most accessible king penguin colony; take a long walk to Whalebone Covewith its rusted hulk of the Lady Elizabeth; and meander along the nature trails of Gypsy Cove.

Besides wildlife toursStanley-based Falkland Island Tours & Travel and Penguin Travel do customized war tours of East Falkland. The Falklands War of 1982 lasted 74 daysduring which over 900 people lost their lives. Both Stanley and the surrounding countryside bear scars from the war. Mount TumbledownMount Harriet and Two Sisters were sites of fierce fightingand islanders were held hostage at the town hall at Goose Green by Argentinian soldiers. Signs around Gypsy Cove beach warn of buried minesand the Argentine cemetery en route to San Carlos still has mass graves with unidentified remains.

In Stanleythere are more than half a dozen very good hotels and B&Bs. Lafone House is run by hospitable Arlettewho once hosted the Duke of York. Malvina House Hotel is the plushest option on the waterfrontwith an excellent restaurant attached. Bennett House B&B (14 Allardyce St) allows travelers to camp in the back gardenwhile Shorty’s Motel is popular with military personnel and has a decent diner.

The outlying islands

The Falklands’ biggest attraction is its wildlife. Many visitors who arrive during the peak season – between November and Marchwhen the days are longest and the weather is more likely to be pleasant – are wildlife lovers who head straight for the outlying islands surrounding the main islandsWest and East Falkland.

South of East Falklandeasily walkable Bleaker Island has gentoo and rockhopper penguin coloniesas well as a vast king cormorant colony. Farther southtiny Sea Lion Island is home to gentooMagellanic and rockhopper penguinsplus large sea lion and elephant seal colonies.

North of West FalklandPebble Island offers a good mix of penguin colonies and Falklands War remainsas well as a stunning beach; 4WD tours reach most sites of interest. Large Saunders Islandto the westis renowned for its enormous colonies of black-browed albatrosses and rockhopper penguinsas well as smaller colonies of gentooMagellanic and king penguins and elephant seals.

At the Falklands archipelago’s northwestern edgevaried birdlife and large numbers of elephant seals thrive on smaller Carcass Island; boat trips can be arranged to uninhabited Steeple Jason Islandhome to the world’s largest black-browed albatross colony.

Finallyvast Weddell Islandon the southwestern edge of the Falklandshas most of the Falklands’ bird speciesincluding all the penguinsas well as visiting birds from South America. The island is also home to Patagonian foxes. February and March are the best months for whale-watchingwith killer whalesblue whalessei whalessouthern right whales and others spotted in the deep waters along the edges of the archipelago.

Where to stay

On the islandsmost wildlife lodge accommodations include all meals. On Bleaker Islandthe hospitable Rendell family runs Cobb’s Cottagefeaturing spacious roomsas well as the four-room Cassard House. Sea Lion Island’s 10-room Sea Lion Lodge is known for its gourmet meals. Pebble Island’s eponymous lodge has a snug single and six large doubles. On Saunders Island you can choose between a refurbished bunkhouse or the Stonehouse in the Settlementor private rooms at the Rookery and The Neck cabins; camping is allowed. On Carcass Islandthere are six doubles and twins in the main house. Weddell Island has two cottages for rent; the accommodations were being renovated in early 2018.

Getting there

To reach the Falklandsyou can either fly or take a cruise ship. Year-roundthe Falklands are served by weekly LATAM flights every Saturday from Santiago de Chile via Punta Arenas. On the second Saturday of every monththe LATAM flight stops at Rio GallegosArgentinareturning the following Saturday. From the UKthere are twice-weekly flights on Wednesdays and Sundays from the RAF Brize Norton air base via the Ascension Islands; note that this is a military flightand is sometimes delayed for days. Some nationalities require visas to visit the Falklands.

During high season (December to February)Stanley is visited by cruise ships several times weeklywith some continuing on to South Georgia and Antarctica.

Getting around

On East Falkland you have the option of renting a 4WD and driving the paved and gravel roads around the island (from FKP45 per day). To get to the outlying islandsyou have to take a local flight with FIGAS. These little planes are the islands’ lifelinedoubling as a postal and medical service. During high seasonthey fly up to three times dailyand it’s possible to book flights as late as the day before you wish to travel; expect to pay FKP75-140 per flightdepending on distance. While FIGAS flies pretty much in any weatherthere are occasional delays due to wind or fog.

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The local currency is the Falklands poundused interchangeably with the pound sterling (£)but be warned: there isn’t a single cash machine on the Falkland Islands. The Standard Chartered Bank in Stanley is only open 9am-3pm Monday to Friday and charges FKP22.50 per cash withdrawal. Bring enough cash with you to tide you overfor the airport transfer and beyondthough it’s possible to get cash back at the West Store supermarket in Stanley if you’re stuck. Euros (€) and US dollars ($) are all welcome and accepted by most businesses and hotels. You'll be unable to use Chilean and Argentinian pesos on any of the islands. You can pay for FIGAS flights by cardand some hotels and guesthouses accept credit cards also. The FKP22/US$30 international departure tax is payable in cash.