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How to Grow Strawberries



Getting Started

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The quintessential fruit of summerstrawberries taste best when home grown

Sweetjuicy and deliciousstrawberries (Fragaria × ananassa)are easy and rewarding to grow. Make your own strawberry patch if you have roomor just add a few plants to the front of a border. Alternativelythey grow well in containers and even hanging baskets.

There are summer-fruitingperpetual and alpine (Fragaria vesca) types to choose fromwith many delicious varieties of each. If you plant several different typesyou can have home-grown harvests from early summer through to autumn. Many strawberries even produce new plantlets (runners)so you can easily increase your plants every year or use them to replace older plants that are past their best.



Month by Month

Plant

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Harvest

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Choosing What To Grow

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If you grow several varietiesyou can have strawberries throughout the summer

There are three main types of strawberrieseach with different characteristics:

Summer-fruiting strawberries – these are the most popular type and produce the largest fruit. They have a short but heavy cropping period of two or three weeks. There are early-mid- and late-fruiting varietiescropping from early June to early August. If covered with cloches or grown in a greenhouse from late winterthey will provide even earlier harvests.

Perpetual strawberries(everbearers) – these produce small flushes of fruit over a long periodfrom early summer until early autumnand in some cases up to the first autumn frosts. The crops are not as large as summer-fruiting varietiesthe fruits are smaller and plants are less likely to produce runners.

Alpine strawberries – also known as wild or woodland strawberriesthese dainty plants produce small crops of tinyaromatic berries intermittently over the summer. These are usually red but a few varieties have white or yellow berries. Planted in sun or light shadethey can be left to fend for themselves. Some produce runners (plantlets on long stems)spreading to form low ground coverothers don’t produce runners so make well-behaved edging plants for veg beds and borders.

There are many different varieties of all three typeswith variations in flavoursweetnessfruit size and colourdisease-resistanceharvest time and even flower colour. Look in particular for varieties with an RHS Award of Garden Merit (AGM)which shows they performed well in trials – see our list of AGM fruit and veg (135kB pdf) and our Recommended Varieties below.

What and where to buy

Summer-fruiting and perpetual strawberries can be bought as potted plants or plantlets known as runnerswhile alpine strawberries can also be grown from seed.

  • Young plants in pots or packs of plug plants are normally on sale from late spring onwards
  • Runners look like little clumps of roots with very few leaves. Don’t be alarmedthis is how they should look. You can buy runners in late summer/early autumn or early spring
  • Cold-stored runners are available from late spring to early summer – these specially prepared runners will fruit about two months after planting
  • Alpine strawberries can be bought as young plants or grown from seed sown indoors in spring or autumn

Always buy strawberry plants from a reputable supplierso that the variety is true to type and plants are disease free. They are readily available in garden centres and from online suppliers.

Recommended Varieties

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Preparing The Ground

Before plantingweed the site thoroughlythen improve the soil by digging in two bucketfuls of well-rotted organic mattersuch as garden compostper square metre/yard. Ideally do this a few weeks before plantingto allow the soil to settle. Alternativelyif you're practising no-dig the surface of the soil ahead of planting directly into the mulch.

Many gardeners grow strawberries through weed-suppressing membrane (ideally or reused)put in place before planting. This prevents weed growthholds water in the soil and stops soil splashing onto the fruit. Simply lay it over your planting areapinning it in place with U-shaped pieces of wirethen cut holes in it to plant into the soil underneath.

Sowing

While summer-fruiting and perpetual strawberries are grown from runners or young plantsalpine strawberries can also be grown from seed indoorsalthough can be slow and patchy. Sow in spring or autumninto trays of peat-free . Scatter the seeds thinly and lightly cover with . Seeds will germinate at about 18°C (64°F). Once germinatedprick out the and pot into small individiual pots. Plant in their final position when they have a good root system. They will often start fruiting in their first year.

Planting

Strawberries are traditionally grown in rows in a dedicated bed or strawberry patch. They also work well as an edging plant for veg beds or flower borders. Another good option is to grow them in containersincluding large potsgrowing bagshanging baskets and windowboxes. This avoids the problem of soil diseases building up in strawberry bedsand the fruits are less likely to be damaged by slugs or snails. Howevervine weevils can be a problem.

Ideallyplant strawberries in springlate summer or early autumn. Planting in August or September gives them time to get established before fruiting the following year. Cold-stored runners are available to buy from late spring to early summer and should be planted immediately.

Strawberries like fertilewell-drainedslightly acidic soil. In poor or heavy soilit’s preferable to plant them in raised bedswhich provide better drainage and increased rooting depth. They grow best and produce the sweetest fruits in a sheltered position in full sun but will tolerate some shade. Avoid planting strawberries in sites prone to late frostswhich can damage the flowers and cause strawberry black eye.

Planting in the ground

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots and water well to soak the soil. When planting strawberriestrim the roots to 10cm (4in) if necessarythen spread them out in the hole. Replace the soilensuring that the base of the crown rests lightly on the surfacebefore firming in gently with your fingers. Planting at the correct depth is important – if the crown is planted too deeply it will rotif it’s planted too shallowly the plant will dry out quickly. Space plants 35–40cm (14–16in) apartin rows about 75cm (30in) apart. Water well to settle the soil around the roots.

Planting in containers

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Strawberries grow well in pots on a sunny patio if watered regularly

Strawberries are easy to grow in potsgrowing bagshanging basketstroughs and tubs. Although traditional strawberry pots (with planting holes around the sides) look attractivethey can make it difficult to maintain healthyproductive plants. Simply fill a large container with peat-free multi-purpose or and plant with the crown just level with the surface. Space plants about 20cm (8in) apart. Position the container in a shelteredsunny spot and water regularly. See the video in the section below for a guide to planting strawberries in containers.

Growing in a greenhouse or under cloches 

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In an unheated greenhousestrawberries will fruit a couple of weeks before outdoor plants

Strawberries can be grown in a greenhousecoldframe or under cloches to produce an earlier harvest. Suitable varieties include ‘Cambridge Favourite’‘Honeoye’‘Rosie’‘Royal Sovereign' and ‘Tamella’. Simply move potted strawberry plants into an unheated greenhouse or coldframe in Februaryor cover rows outdoors with cloches or a plastic-free or reused crop cover. Water to keep the soil/ slightly moist. Hand-pollinate the flowers with a soft paintbrush or remove the covers during the day while in flower to allow insects to pollinate them.

Cloches should give you fruits at least a week ahead of unprotected plantsand an unheated greenhouse about two weeks aheadso you could be enjoying ripe strawberries in late spring. See the video below for more information.

Replanting

A bed of strawberries usually stays healthy and crops well for up to four years if planted into well-drainedfertile soil. To avoid disease build-up and ensure a good cropreplant every three or four years. Make a new strawberry bed in a different location to avoid issues caused by replant disorder.

Plant Care

Strawberry plants need regular attention to ensure you get the best possible crop. Keep them free of weedswater in prolonged dry spells and protect the ripening fruit.

Watering

Water new plants regularly while they are establishingand water all strawberry plants during prolonged dry periods in the growing season. Plants in containersespecially hanging basketsneed regular wateringas the can dry out quickly.

When watering strawberriestry to avoid wetting the crown (centre) of the plant or the fruitas this can lead to fungal problemsespecially grey mould. It’s best to water in the mornings rather than the eveningsso if the plants or fruit do get splashedthey have plenty of time to dry out.

Feeding

Strawberry plants growing in decentregularly mulched soil are unlikely to need any additional feeding. Howeverif harvests are poorapply a high potassium granular fertiliser in spring. If your plants are showing signs of nutrient deficiencyuse our page on nutrient deficiencies to work out what is lacking and apply the recommended feedfollowing instructions on the packet.

Feed plants in containers or growing bags fortnightly during the growing season. Start with with a general purpose liquid feedthen switch to a high potassium liquid feed when the first flower form.

Mulching

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Put a layer of straw around your plants to keep the fruit clean and dry

your strawberry bed in late winter or early spring with a layer of well-rotted organic mattersuch as garden compostwill improve your soilhelp to retain moisture and suppress weeds. can cause rotting if it’s placed over the crownso leave a slight gap around the base of your plants.

Strawberry beds can also be mulched with dry organic mattersuch as strawwhen they start to develop fruits. This will keep the fruit off damp groundso they stay clean and dry and are less likely to rot. Wheat straw is finealthough barley straw is softer. Remove the layer of straw in autumnas it can become an ideal environment for fungal diseasesslugs and snails when damp. Alternativelyplace mulch mats or re-usable strawberry collars around individual plants.

Removing flowers

Depending on the type of strawberry and planting timeremoving the first flush of flowers can aid establishment and enhance long-term cropping.

Summer-fruiting strawberries planted in autumn or spring – the first flush of flowers should only be removed if growth has been slow and plants look weak.

Perpetual strawberries planted in spring – these will establish better if the first flush of flowers are removed. Those planted in late-summer or autumn should be sufficiently establishedbut if plant growth has been poorremove the first flowers.

Cold-stored runners planted in late spring to early summer – leave the flowers on. If given good growing conditionsthese will produce strawberries about 60 days after plantingreverting to their natural cropping period the following year.

Protecting flowers and fruit

Frost – strawberry plants are hardybut if frost is forecast while they’re in flower or have early fruitscover the plants overnight with biodegradable fleecehessian or an old bedsheet.

Damp soil – unless your plants are growing through membraneprotect developing berries from wet soil and potential rot by placing biodegradable plant mats or straw beneath the fruits as they begin to form (see above).

Birds and squirrels – to prevent birds from eating your fruitbuild a framework over the plants using bamboo canes or woodand cover it with plastic-free or reused netting before the berries ripen. Ensure the netting is taut and fastened securely so birds and other wildlife don’t get entangled in it. You can also use chicken wirewhich will deter squirrels. Remove the protection after harvesting to allow birds to feed on any pests. Alternativelygrow your plants inside a fruit cage.

Propagating

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Propagate from runners produced by plants in the ground or containers

Strawberries can be propagated from runners (plantlets produced on long stems). Late summer is an ideal time to do this.

  • Place 9cm (3½in) potsfilled with peat-free multi-purpose beside your strawberry plants and insert individual runners into them
  • Peg them down with U-shaped pieces of wireabout 15cm (6in) long
  • Aim to keep the compost slightly moist to promote root growth
  • Sever the new young plants from the parent plant when rooted

Perpetual strawberries produce fewer runners than summer-fruiting strawberriesso new plants often have to be bought in. If alpine strawberries are left unharvestedthey may self-seed.

Harvesting

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When harvestingchoose only fully ripe berriesas they won’t ripen further once picked

Strawberries ripen outdoors from early summer into autumndepending on the variety. Pick them when they’re bright red all overideally during the warmest part of the dayas this is when they’re at their most tasty. Eat them as soon as possible – they'll taste better and they don’t keep long once ripe. You can freeze them but they don’t usually hold their shape when defrostedalthough they’re still great in smoothies and desserts.

After harvesting

  • Plant spare runners into any gaps in the row or use them to replace old plants. Remove any unwanted runners to prevent overcrowding
  • Some gardeners prefer a continuous row in the second and third yearrather than spaced plants. The overall crop may be higherbut the quality of fruits may not be as good. Whichever method you usekeep a clear gap between the rows to give you access for weeding and harvesting
  • With summer-fruiting strawberriesonce cropping has finishedcut off the old leaves about 10cm (4in) above the crown to allow fresh leaves to develop. This isn’t necessary with perpetual strawberries – instead just remove any deaddamaged or diseased leaves during the end-of-season clear-up

Problem Solving

Strawberries can be affected by various problems. To ensure you get a good cropprotect the flowers from late frosts and protect ripening fruits from birds and squirrels. Vine weevil larvae are particularly fond of strawberry plants and pose a greater threat to those grown in containersbut they can be kept in check with biological controls. Several virusesinsects and diseases can also affect strawberries – see Common problems below.

Common Problems

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