Vermilion Cliffs Regions
The south and east edges of the national monument are formed by the Vermilion Cliffs themselveswhich must be one of the most spectacular and extensive cliff faces in the US - unusually colorful because of the especially variegated
Chinle Formation that forms the lower stratathe escarpment runs for over 30 miles and reaches heights of 2,000 feet. Further southeastthe land is quite flat for 100 miles or more though is split by the
Colorado Riverat the start of its Grand Canyon.
The Vermilion Cliffs and their foothillsthe lower canyon of the
Paria River and the
Coyote Buttes are also part of the
Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness Areawhich extends a few miles northwardsbeyond the national monument boundary into Utahto incorporate the
Buckskin Gulch slot canyon and adjacent lands.
Besides these regionsmost people encounter Vermilion Cliffs National Monument when driving along US 89A between
Lees Ferry and
Jacob Lake on the Kaibab Plateau - 40 miles of impressive scenery with the cliffs on one side and the vastlevel plains around Marble Canyon and
House Rock Valley on the otherfollowed (to the west) by a steep climb into pine forest at the edge of plateau. Apart from the Ferrythe road passes just one other significant settlement
Cliff Dwellerswhich consists of a few adobe buildings nestled amongst crumbling rocks and oddly shaped bouldersincluding a restaurantlodge and gas station. There are plenty of places for free primitive camping along dirt tracks either side of US 89Amostly on the southeast sidefor example near milepost 548 where a short side track leads to a corralalso used as the trailhead to
Soap Creek. Apart from camping beneath the cliffs or just driving past themone obvious goal is to climb to the topbut the sheer Navajo and Moenave sandstone restricts easy routes to just threeone via
Bonelli Springreached by a side track near milepost 561and two a few miles away near
Jacob's Poolone of which is described below.
Hike to the Plateau
Jacob's Pool and nearby
Rachel's Pool are a series of small springs at the foot of the Vermilion Cliffs that were once used byand are named afterthe family of
John D Lee who founded Lees Ferry. The area is reached by a 2 mile side road that leaves US 89A between mileposts 557 and 558near a historical marker commemorating the
Escalante-Dominguez expedition of 1776. The road passes through an unlocked gate and ends at an abandoned stone house dated 1951next to an old corral and other relicswhich is a good place to parkor camp. The shortest route from here to the top of the cliffs is to walk eastwards along a disused track parallel to a fenceacross then beside a small drainage and up to one of the springs - an area of dense bushes and trees from which a small stream flows. A trail begins when the track endsleading up a slope left of the springsacross a flatter rocky area then ascending a longer slope of increasing steepness. It trends rightclimbing more gradually then sharply once more to the base of the sheer Navajo sandstone layerfinally cutting back northwest along a cairned track to the foot of a narrow crack in the top of the cliffswhich has a number of petroglyphs and inscriptions of early travelers etched on the rocks at either side. The path continues up the crack then fades away once at the top. This part of the plateau is mostly sandy apart from scattered rocky outcropsmostly eroded beehive/teepee formations. Views from the edge encompass countless square miles of the Colorado River valley and the more distant
Kaibab Plateauthough all this expanse is rather featureless and the scene is not particularly good for photography.
Vermilion Cliffs - Locations
Sites and hikes in the national monument and/or the wilderness area:
Bonelli Spring Route★★★★★3.2 miles1,840 feet
Steep route from House Rock Valley to the top of the Vermilion Cliffsvia a historic spring
Buckskin Gulch★★★★★13.5 miles900 feet
The longest and deepest slot canyon in the Southwest - intimidatingsheer-walled narrows that extend for 12 miles
Popular region containing rocks of many colors and formsincluding the Wave; permits required. Divided into
North and
South sections
Edmaiers Secret★★★★★2.4 miles120 feet
Hike along part of Buckskin Gulch to a small region of angular rock formations; finsridges and hoodoos
Maze Rock Art Site★★★★★0.7 miles150 feet
Impressive panel of many petroglyphson a red rock cliff on the east side of House Rock Valley
Paria River★★★★★7 miles300 feet
Shallow river flowing through miles of deepenclosed passageways; one of the best canyons in the Southwest
Water Pockets★★★★★10 miles1,170 feet (loop)
Remoterocky drainagean east-side tributary of the Paria River
White Pocket★★★★★2 miles200 feet (loop)
Distant group of swirlingmulticolored rock formationsreached by sandy 4WD roads
Wire Pass★★★★★1.7 miles200 feet
Short tributary of Buckskin Gulchused as an entrance route to that canyonbut forming a goodquite deep slot of its own