Situated on the banks of the Yamuna River in AgraIndiathe Taj Mahal is a white marble mausoleum complex that dates back to the 17th century. It was commissioned by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan in memory of his favorite wife and later became his own resting placeas well. But the structure’s fame has much more to do with its impressivehistorically significant design than the people who are buried there.
“It’s this incredible synthesis that really defines the early modern worldwhich is a story about contact,” says Kishwar Rizvia professor of Islamic art and architecture at Yale University. “The Taj Mahal references Timurid architecture from Central Asiait builds on Safavid architectural trends from Iranas well as craftsmanship from Italy. And it’s part of the history of Islam in Indiabuilding on the funerary tombs that had existed since the 12th century. It’s a fabulous example of this historical moment.”
To learn more about the Taj MahalAD chatted with Rizvi and local licensed tour guide BK Jain. Here’s everything you need to know.
The Taj Mahal is located in Agraa city in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It sits on the right bank of the Yamuna Riverthe second-largest tributary of the Gangeswhich is an atypical spot for a mausoleum. “The Taj Mahal is a very self-aware structure that breaks away from tradition,” explains Rizvi. “Rather than having the tomb at the center of a gardenit’s been pushed to the edgeright on the riverfront. The architecture invites a new and different view. You can see it from the other side of the river.”
In 1631Shah Jahan ordered that the Taj Mahal be built to house the tomb of his beloved wife Mumtaz Mahal. “She was the second queen of the emperor,” Jain notes. “She died when she was delivering her 14th child. There was an excess of bleeding due to complications in the womb. She was not in Agra at that timeand was instead accompanying Shah Jahan to Burhanpur. While she was pregnantshe spent almost a month on the back of an elephant to reach there.”
According to legendMumtaz Mahal requested that Shah Jahan build her a funerary tomb while she was on her deathbed. “She said‘You have to make some commitments to me,’” recounts Jain. “First‘Please do not marry again. This wayyou can remember me in the afterlife.’ Second‘Take care of the children.’ Third‘Build a funerary tomb over my grave. This should be a symbol of love.’ That is the reason for the Taj Mahal.”
Rizvihoweverpoints out another motivation for the Taj Mahal’s construction. “In the 19th centurythere were romantic British stories about this being a monument to lovewhichyesit was built for his wifebut he was always going to be buried there too,” she explains. “I think it’s more important to see this as an imperial monument that tells us something about the ambitions of Shah Jahan himself and the worlds that he wanted to create.”
The mausoleum was completed in 1648but it was another five years before the rest of the complex was finished. Overallthe project lasted 22 years and required over 20,000 workers. It cost an estimated 32 million rupees at the timewhich would be 52.8 billion rupees—or $827 million—now. “These daysyou can say it’s priceless,” adds Jain.
Shah Jahan appointed Ustad Ahmad Lahori to lead the team of architects and artisans who designed the Taj Mahal. “He was a renowned Persian architect,” Jain says. “He presented a model to Shah Jahanwho made some modifications and then approved it. The emperor supported Lahori and checked in from time to time.”
The name Taj Mahal is believed to be of Persian origin. “Taj means ‘crown’ and mahal is ‘palace,’” explains Jain. “It’s ‘crown palace’ because the building itself looks like a palace and there are four minarets in the cornerswhich look like a crown for the building. The real name of the building was Rauza-e-Munawwarabut later on it became known as Taj Mahal.”
The Taj Mahal complex includes a mausoleuma main gatewaya red sandstone mosquea jawab (which translates to “answer,” and looks just like the mosque)and a garden. “When you enter the main gatethere is a mosque and an identical building that looks like a mosque,” describes Jain. “The real name of that second building was Mehmaan Khanabut when the English ruled over Indiathey called it the guest house. That building just maintains the symmetry. The mosquethe mausoleumand the guest house are in one line. In the frontthere’s a beautiful garden with water fountains.”
White marble was used to build the Taj Mahal mausoleumgiving it a luminousethereal quality. “The marble is from a quarry in Makranaa place in Rajasthan about 240 miles away from Agra,” Jain specifies. “At the timethere was no modern transportationso the marble got there by camel carts and burro carts.”
Shah Jahan’s choice to employ white marble was also a symbolic one. “Sufismthe mystical dimension of Islamis an integral part of the Indian subcontinent,” says Rizvi. “The first white domes that we see are on the tombs of Sufi shaikhs. What Shah Jahan is doing in the use of white marble on this tomb is overlaying his authority as the king with his authority as a representative of Islam. He was known to be pious and religious.”
The imported white marble of the mausoleum is juxtaposed with red sandstone from nearby Fatehpur Sikriwhich composes the mosque and the guesthouse. “I think a beautiful part of the architecture is the balance of red sandstonewhich is localand the gleamingwhite marble.” opines Rizvi.
The mausoleum buildingwhich stands on a 20-foot tall plinthis completely symmetrical. Each of its four nearly-identical sides features a pishtaqa portal with a recessed archand an onion-shaped dome. The largecentral onion-shaped dome is topped with a finial that was originally goldbut later replaced with gilded bronze.
Four minarets with small domes on top rise out of the plinth’s chamfered corners. “Usuallyyou don’t see minarets with domes attached to them,” explains Rizvi. “The mosque on the platformwhich is facing towards Meccarepresents an important devotional aspect of the complex. Thusthe Taj Mahal serves both as a tombbut also as a place where you would go and pray.”
The gates and the tomb are adorned with calligraphy. “From the entrance gateway all the way throughthe tomb complex is covered in Quranic versesalmost like a choreographed calligraphic recitation,” Rizvi describes. “Shah Jahan presented himself as a pious Muslim rulerin contrast to his fatherwho was known for his addictions.”
The inside of the Taj Mahal is quite different from the outside. “The interior is where it flipsit’s where we see the opulence,” shares Rizvi. “The exterior is covered in Quranic verses and is very austerewhile the interior becomes this almost garden-like space with colorful flora and vegetation. It’s a very traditional tomb structure with an octagonal jalior screenaround itbut it’s in the details that you get to see some really interesting things.”
The details Rizvi is alluding to are not frescoes or sculpturesbut intricate inlays. “From a decoration point of viewthere is no painting—they used only semi-precious stones inlaid into the marble,” says Jain. “Maybe they thought paint would not be lasting and that is why they introduced this inlay workwhich is known as pietra dura in Italian and parchin kari in the Persian language. They used coralmalachitecarnelianjasperand lapis lazuli.” These gems display that India was the wealthiest nation in the world at the time.
Many of the inlays depict flowers. “The floral motifs show the Mughals’ interest in naturalism,” Rizvi explains. “They had been getting botanical books from Europebrought by the Portuguese and the British envoys and missionariesso they were very much part of the Mughal vocabulary. For exampleyou can see poppies that are very realistically rendered.”
In front of the mausoleum is a 3,200-square-foot charbaghalso known as a Mughal garden. Inspired by the descriptions of Paradise in the Quranthe garden is divided into four quadrants by two walkways. “The idea is like heaven on earth,” says Jain. “According to the Quranin front of the house of Allahthere’s a beautiful garden with four rivers—one for huntingone for milkone for waterand one for wine.” A reflecting pool mirrors the image of the Taj Mahal.
Originallythe garden was wild and lushbut it was converted to more tailoredVictorian- landscaping during the British Raj in India. “You have to imagine it as an orchardwhich means that there were fruit trees and sweet-smelling flowers like jasmine and rose,” Rizvi says. “It was meant to be a livingorganic space with seasons. It was imagined as a sustaining space of sanctuary. Monuments such as these came with endowments that paid for the buildings’ care and upkeepand served as socially responsive institutions. For exampleevery Thursdayfood would be distributed for the poor.”
Over the yearsefforts have been made to protect the Taj Mahal from deterioration. “A few decades agothere were a lot of iron foundries in Agrabut by the order of the lawthose were stopped and shifted 50 kilometers away,” shares Jain. “Right nowthe Taj Mahal area is a pollutant-free zone. Vehicles are not allowed up to the Taj Mahal. Before COVIDit was cleaned by a special method. Only the dome was not cleaned. The white part of the mausoleum is totally clean.”
Despite these protective measuresthe Taj Mahal is still at risk. “Marble is very sturdybut it’s still an organic material,” explains Rizvi. “The environment that we have now is not something it can naturally defend itself againstwhich is why we need conservation scientists and preservationists learning how to protect these buildings from human and environmental damage. And unfortunatelyunless they are prioritizedthat won’t happen. Mughal heritage in India is very much under threat. A lot of my colleagues have been writing and raising alarm about the disrepair of the Taj Mahal. There’s a lot of urgency to its survival.”
A UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular tourist attractions in the worldthe Taj Mahal welcomes over 7 million visitors a year. The best time to tour the Taj Mahalaccording to Jainis from October to March. He advises against coming in Januarywhen it’s cold and foggy. Most importantlyyou shouldn’t plan to visit the Taj Mahal on a Friday. “The Taj Mahal is closed every Friday for prayerso tourists are not allowed. It’s only for Muslims. Otherwiseit’s open every day from sunrise to sunsetall year. Just pay the entrance fee,” he says.
Jain also recommends staying overnight in Agrarather than just taking a day trip from Delhito see landmarks of Mughal architecture like the Agra Fortthe tomb of I’timād-ud-Daulahand the tomb of Akbar. Butof coursethe Taj Mahal will always be the main event. “It’s a symbol of love—that’s why people come here,” says Jain. “Everyone needs love in his or her life.”
