Our favourite Indian restaurants across Britain Published 29 October 2024
Indian food in Britain is no longer low-costone-flavour-fits-allpost-pub curry fare. TodayBritish Indian restaurants reflect an excitingnuanced cuisineinflected with the scope of flavours of the sub-continentdeserving of the same respect as the finest classical cookery. Here are some of our favourite spots across Britainfrom budget-friendly cafés to decadent fine-dining restaurants.
A few blocks from the South Promenade and the thrills and spills of Blackpool's Pleasure Beachthis neighbourhood Indian restaurant is everybody's idea of an invaluable local resource and ‘brings something a bit different t… Read more
A few blocks from the South Promenade and the thrills and spills of Blackpool's Pleasure Beachthis neighbourhood Indian restaurant is everybody's idea of an invaluable local resource and ‘brings something a bit different to the local area’. The name means something like 'At the sign of the pomegranate'and behind a leafy-green frontagethe place exudes a family feelingwith cooking that is steeped in the Subcontinent's ancestral traditions and executed with impressive flair.
Sharing platters encourage a sense of togetherness (try the yakni Kashmiri pulao served straight from the stove)although most of the menu works in the expected waywith extras of naan breads and parathas alongside main dishes such as Irache dry-roast beef curry with mustard seedspunchy sarson prawns in coconut milk and poppy seeds or a special family- lamb curry that takes influences from Rajasthan and Kolkata. You might preface these treats with Darjeeling chicken momo (dumplings)tandoori wings or the unmissable lehsuni houmous – textured with garlic oil and the pop of pomegranate seedsserved with tandoori roti. Desserts herald some of India's aromatic classics including mango and cashew kulfi‘tres leches’ kheer (rice pudding) and pistachio crème brûlée.
Other attractions include a highly popular supper club and a proper Indian breakfast/brunch offercomplete with naan rollschilli cheese toastpav bhaji and Indo-Chinese noodle-based ‘masala Maggie’all washed down with chai and lassi. Varietal wines do their jobwhile fruity cocktails offer a true taste of Blackpool.
A local institution with creative Indian food that's a cut above
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above … Read more
‘Serving up exceptional curries since 1985,’ Forest Hill’s beloved Babur just keeps on rolling – and it's still the go-to option for locals wanting prettily plated Indian food that’s a cut above your average high-street curry house. It’s also family-run‘rooted in the local community‘ and run by kindly staff who give everyone a ‘genuinely warm welcome’. Over the yearsit has become increasingly stylish and distinctivewith a hand-painted kalamkari horoscope in the foyerlow-hanging lightsexposed brickwork and wooden partitions holding elaborate floral displays.
Meanwhilethe kitchen scours the Subcontinent for regional ideas while offering dedicated menus for those with special dietary needs. The full repertoire bypasses kormas and dhansaks in favour of more intricatemodern ideas such as goat tikka with a cumin puff and aubergine mashsteamed shoulder of lamb (marinated for 100 hours) with beetroot riceor spiced stone bass with chana masala yoghurt and papaya chutney. Vegetable dishes and sides are also full of promise – think garlicky spinach with sweetcorn and mushrooms or thinly sliced fried potatoes dusted with mango powder.
To finishtry the milk sponge cake with saffron gel or the chocolate fondant spiced with cumin.On SundaysBabur’s ‘help yourself’ family buffet is something of a local institution in its own right. The wine list has been knowledgeably assembled with food in mindbut it would be remiss to ignore the zippy Asian-themed cocktails.
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is boomingwith openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisineyet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, HoppersGymkhanaetc) is one of the most exciting to dat… Read more
The capital's Indian restaurant scene is boomingwith openings across the spectrum from street food to high-end cuisineyet this venture from the JKS group (Sabor, HoppersGymkhanaetc) is one of the most exciting to date. A short distance from Selfridgesand fronted by an outdoor heated terraceit’s a bijou spacelongnarrowdimly lit and dominated by an open-plan kitchen. Most seats are at the counter overlooking the chefs at workthough there are some black-leather booths along the opposite wall; the vibe is sociableaided by a lively soundtrack and a highly charged service team. It’s a great platform for chef Chetan Sharmawho has L’Enclume and Moor Hall in his culinary DNA. He doesn't disappointexperimenting with ingredients and techniques while fusing different culinary influences into his own individualistic – although everything is rooted in traditional Indian cooking. The result is an innovativecontemporary menu (two tasters and a carte) based around small plateschaat (street food) and grilled dishes. Layers of flavour are built up gradually: a raw scallop is provocatively paired with blood orange and Indian lemonade ('a beautiful marriage between the softsweet mollusc and the citrusy pop’); tender grilled Lahori chicken comes with a cashew and yoghurt whey. Elsewhereokra is given a lift with peanutssesame and fermented chilliwhile 'sides' such as roomali roti or pilau rice cooked in a little chicken broth and topped with deep-fried onions merit a central role. The ‘addictive’ sweet-spicy notes of puffy sweetcorn nuggets served with Kashmiri yellow chilli and corn-husk mayonnaise make a brilliant opening salvo; saffron and white chocolate kulfi 'in the shape of a Magnum ice cream' provides the perfect finale. Wines have been thoughtfully assembled with the food in mindalthough prices aren't cheap.
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that … Read more
Anyone who has seen the movie The Lunchbox will know about the ‘dabbawalas’ who bike thousands of tiffin tins to office workers across Mumbai and other Indian cities. This casual sibling of Jamavar brings some of that homespun subcontinental spice and flavour to central Mayfairwith plenty of (Bombay) bustle and noisy chatter to go with the smoky aromas. Against a slick Art Deco backdrop inspired by the city’s first-class railway carriagesthe kitchen doles out dishes full of up-front punch and invigorating freshnesswith touches of glamour and panache thrown in for good measure. Some of the best things are the small plates – pao buns stuffed with lamb keemapeppery spiced scrambled eggs with truffle oil and naancrispy new potatoes with Tulsi chilli chutney. If something more substantial is requiredlook to the line-up of tandoor-fired dishesbiryanis and curries – from Goan- stone bass tikka with chilli paste to Malabar lamb or a version of chicken Madras involving coconut milk and ‘southern spices’. Dhalsvegetables and sides will please all palates and persuasionswhile dessert might bring masala chai panna cotta with strawberries and figs. On Sundaythe Bombay Bustle 'brunch bundle' is a local hit. To drinkeast-west cocktails are quite the thing here(try the signature G&T made with Nagpur orange bitter and gin distilled in a 100-year-old copper pot); otherwise glug a bottle of Indian beer or something from the global wine list.
The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK… Read more
The fact that this vibrant suburban Indian is in a residential area well away from Stockport’s main drag means that it’s still a proper locals’ restaurant – even though its fame has now spread far beyond SK7. Much of the credit must go to owners Sandeep Gursahani and Donya Bonyadiwho put their heart and soul into the placetreat kids with affection and ensure that standards remain ‘sky-high’. The interior is a riot of colour (postersframed photographsmuralsbright orange napkins)while ‘incredibly friendly’ staff are always happy to guide diners through the menu. Check out the Indo-Chinese specialities and dishes from Sindh province (Sandeep’s homeland)although there are well-rendered regional winners wherever you look. Regulars know most of the repertoire by heart but there is always the odd surprisesuch as a lightly spiced chicken kebab – hunks of juicy meateach on a hanging skewerset over smouldering charcoal to give the whole thing a delicious smokiness. Hits are many and variedfrom the crispest masala dosa with soothing coconut chutney to the ‘Mumbai sizzler’ (a fiercely hot metal skillet with cubes of paneeronionsa stuffed pepper, makhani sauce and rice) – perfect with a superb onion and chilli kulcha. Fans of Bollywood movies will recognise the curious names of some dishes: Lai Bhaarifor exampleis a fabulous lamb creation with a gorgeous sauce (sweet jaggerysharp tamarindearthily savoury peanuts). To finishtry a ‘sizzling brownie’ or the mini white chocolate and cinnamon samosa. Drink Indian beer or one of the Bollywood-themed cocktails.
It may have grown into a mini-chain with three venues plus an active brewery and taproombut Mill HillLeeds is where it all started for Bundobust 10 years ago. The atmosphere here is still as electric as everwith a menu that'… Read more
It may have grown into a mini-chain with three venues plus an active brewery and taproombut Mill HillLeeds is where it all started for Bundobust 10 years ago. The atmosphere here is still as electric as everwith a menu that's vegetarian by happenstance rather than design and encourages sharing. Must-orders include okra fries seasoned with black salt and mango powderpaneer tikkaand gobi Manchurian – a sweetspicy nod to the Indo-Chinese sub-genre. Twelve keg and two cask lines pour a selection of beers from the Bundobust Brewery in Manchesterplus collabs and guest brewswhile the cocktail/mocktail list brings flavours from the kitchen to the bar with various house-made infusions.
Manchester's fine 'rice 'n' three' tradition comes to Salford in the form of this Gujarati caféMediaCity's most wholesome (and popular) indie offering. A daily dish rotation – pick three to eat with fluffy rice &nda… Read more
Manchester's fine 'rice 'n' three' tradition comes to Salford in the form of this Gujarati caféMediaCity's most wholesome (and popular) indie offering. A daily dish rotation – pick three to eat with fluffy rice – includes treasures such as lamb karahi or floaty-light coconut and spinach tarka dhal. It's a popular al-desko takeawaybut you can eat in from cardboard bowls at the basic bench seating. Either waythe correct response to the offer of chillies and chutneys is 'all of themplease'.
Camellia Panjabi was one of the first restaurateurs in London to showcasein a modern idiomthe many-splendid iterations of Indian regional cooking. This is upscale food that shines with glittery excitement and regal flavours in… Read more
Camellia Panjabi was one of the first restaurateurs in London to showcasein a modern idiomthe many-splendid iterations of Indian regional cooking. This is upscale food that shines with glittery excitement and regal flavours in a glamorous setting. On arrivalyou are engulfed in a wave of attention; some might feel a touch overwhelmedbut for others it’s a magic carpet ride to the glory days of the Raj. The cavernous interior is glitzyglossylavishly crammed with giltcrystalshimmering lightsframed colonial printslarge artworks and etched glass.
The food is equally polished: dabba gosht was a creamynutty lamb stew; baked crab balchao served in its baking dish was gently spiced and topped with crispy breadcrumbs. Other small plates might include baked venison samosa or scallops in Mangalorean sauce. There is an Indian barbecue selection offering the likes of tandoori Amritsan sea bass or Afghani chicken tikkaas well as roster of slow-cooked dishes that includes 'Parsi wedding' duckBengal lamb curry and a delicious nut-thickened Karwan fish curry made with halibut. The waiting staff are happy to convey any request to modify the spicing back to the kitchen.
Desserts are equally wide-ranging within the national compass: dark chocolate and Punjabi rum tartcherry shrikhand or perfect Persian kulfielegantly moulded like citrus segments and served on a silvery plate. The Sunday brunch is also worth notingas is the Pukka Bar lunch.
After a brief sojourn in Covent GardenAsma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all startedon the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Courtnext door to the site of the original venue. It's a covetedli… Read more
After a brief sojourn in Covent GardenAsma Khan’s popular Indian eatery is back where it all startedon the top floor of Carnaby Street’s Kingly Courtnext door to the site of the original venue. It's a covetedlight-filled corner spotlow-key but comfortablewith creamy butter-coloured walls and ceilingswood floorsmarble-topped tables and lots of green plants. There’s a view into the kitchen where an all-female brigade weaves flavours in a that blends BengaliHyderabadi and Kolkatan influencesdeftly applying their skills to a hotchpotch of street foodhome- and classic dishes. Dinner is a 'royal thali' fixed-price dealbut there's also plenty to savour on the lunchtime carte – the sort of menu from which you want to order everything. Classic channa chat brings lovely tangy sweet-sour flavours and good textural contrastthere are moreish momos (Tibetan steamed dumplings) in both meat and veggie versionsplus utterly delicious fresh paneer served in a richcreamy coconut-heavy korma sauceand a gutsy Bengali- slow-cooked goat curry served on the bone. Spicing is cleanclear and punchywhile incidentals and sides ofsaycrunchy green beans with cumin and dried red chilliesare no slackers. Only a dish of rather wateryinsipid tamarind dhal disappointed at our test meal. Service is cheerfulbrisk and efficientwhile drinks run from lassiscocktails and Indian beer to a brief international wine list.
Shake off the humdrum location (beside the busy Otley Road in north Leeds) and relax into the easy enjoyment of Dastaan. Sibling of the original restaurant in Epsomwith Nand Kishor Semwal (ex-Gymkhana) as executive chefit bear… Read more
Shake off the humdrum location (beside the busy Otley Road in north Leeds) and relax into the easy enjoyment of Dastaan. Sibling of the original restaurant in Epsomwith Nand Kishor Semwal (ex-Gymkhana) as executive chefit bears many of the same hallmarks: faultlessly warmattentive service and a freshsnappy menu which skirts all the curry-house clichés. Start with spinach and kale bhajiya or generouscharred wedges of paneer tikka with bright mint chutney before delving into a pork cheek vindaloo or Malvani fish curry. The vast 130-cover dining room has its own bar serving up cocktailsmocktails, local Kirkstall Brewery beer on draught and a selection of mainstream wines.
Occupying the ‘bow end’ of the astonishing boat-shaped One Chamberlain Square building overlooking Birmingham Town Hallthis branch of Dishoom is nothing if not eye-catching. Insideits take on a Bombay’s class… Read more
Occupying the ‘bow end’ of the astonishing boat-shaped One Chamberlain Square building overlooking Birmingham Town Hallthis branch of Dishoom is nothing if not eye-catching. Insideits take on a Bombay’s classless Irani cafés also pays homage to that city’s Swadeshi Market with all sorts of exhibitsparaphernalia and archive material – or you can enjoy priceless people-watching from the vast outdoor terrace.
Roll up early for buttery maska buns with hot chai or a chicken kathi rolllunch on a couple of small plates (perhaps a pau bhaji or a chicken and mango salad)or feast on tandooris and grills such as the ‘perfectly spiced’ masala prawns. These share the billing with various ‘Ruby Murrays’mutton pepper fry and the house special – in this case Goan monkfish curry strewn with curry leaves.
Of courseyou can always go down the traditional curry-house route (spicy samosas and light bhel puris followed by a ‘succulent’ chicken biryani) but feedback suggests that this is less rewarding and far less fun than hands-on sharing. To finishopt for something sweet and soothing such as a creamy kulfi. Drinkers are also spoilt for choicewith a bewildering array of cocktailssodasinternational wines and esoteric beers (one fan recommends the Dishoom IPA‘a very worthy and refreshing brew’).
The Dishoom group has the knack of picking atmospheric locations for its various restaurantsand this Edinburgh outpost is no exception – although one local thought it felt ‘a bit like a pub’. Occupying three fl… Read more
The Dishoom group has the knack of picking atmospheric locations for its various restaurantsand this Edinburgh outpost is no exception – although one local thought it felt ‘a bit like a pub’. Occupying three floors of a handsome Art Deco building overlooking St Andrew Squareit is dedicated to hirsute Scottish botanist and all-round man of the people Sir Patrick Geddeswho helped improve living conditions in Edinburgh's Old Town during Victorian times and had strong links with Bombay. Appropriatesince Dishoom aims to recreate the essence and ambience of that city's classless Irani caféswith a lively all-day menu of Anglo-Indian tiffin and tucker.
Roll up early for buttery maska buns with hot chai or a chicken kathi rolllunch on a couple small plates (perhaps a hot potato vada pau or chickpeashalwa and pickles in a puffy puri); otherwiseget sociable by sharing a feast of different dishes. Grills such as Dishoom’s invigoratingly spiced lamb chops share the billing with slow-cooked biryanisvarious ‘Ruby Murrays’ and the house special – salli boti (braised lamb in rich gravy served with crunchy ‘crisp chips’ and buttered roomali roti).
To finisha creamycooling kulfi fits the bill admirably. Drinkers are also handsomely served with a bewildering array of ‘sharbats’coolersesoteric beerswines and cocktails on offer: don’t miss the special Horniman’s Old Fashionednamed after Benjamin Horniman - a friend of Patrick Geddes and editor of The Bombay Chronicle.
Hugely popularnot least for its 'super-fair' pricing and vibrantinclusive atmospherethis South Indian favourite takes a masterly approach to carbs. Dosaswhich can be roasted with homemade ghee or stuffed with the house pot… Read more
Hugely popularnot least for its 'super-fair' pricing and vibrantinclusive atmospherethis South Indian favourite takes a masterly approach to carbs. Dosaswhich can be roasted with homemade ghee or stuffed with the house potato masalaare bigcrisp and shinywhile the parathas are gloriously ragged and the pooris puffy. Eat them with veggie and vegan curries such as tempting tamarind chickpeasthough there are homespun takes on chicken and lamb classics too. Everything comes together on Sundays for 'particularly good' sapaad feastspopular across the generations. A new outdoor space is getting noticed.
In recent monthsa number of restaurant openings have put the spotlight on Notting Hill as a broadly based foodie destination. Empire Empirefrom Harneet Baweja of the Gunpowder groupis one of them. Inspired by India’s 1… Read more
In recent monthsa number of restaurant openings have put the spotlight on Notting Hill as a broadly based foodie destination. Empire Empirefrom Harneet Baweja of the Gunpowder groupis one of them. Inspired by India’s 1970s disco sceneit’s a cosy dining space with an old-school look rather than Bollywood- overkill: think coloured tiled flooringdark wood furnishingsoval-shaped lighting and white tablecloths. In additionthere's a jukebox and a photo boothwhile vintage album covers of Indian disco performers and artwork by leading artistsJorgensen Chowdhury and Rabin Mondaladorn the whitewashed walls. Infectious Indian disco tunes provide fun and energy and the whole place is run in a relaxed and amiable manner. The food focuses on northwest India and the Punjabwith nashta (snacks) and starterskebabs and tikkasbiryanis and curries. We enjoyed moreish deep-fried golden-brown fish and prawn Amritsari pakorasand the charcoal grill was put to good use for a tender bihari ribeye beef kebab. Flavours are big and rich with spice – witness a gamey sag gosht and a bhindi dopiaza packed with tomatoes and onion. The naan breadfresh from the ovenis irresistiblewhile sweet and spongy gulab jamun with ice cream figures among the desserts. To drinkcocktails and beers line up alongside a concise list of natural wines.
Named after a potent South Indian spice mixnot the black chemical explosivethis cutecosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You ca… Read more
Named after a potent South Indian spice mixnot the black chemical explosivethis cutecosy and cramped canteen on a backstreet near Spitalfields Market is East London’s take on a traditional Indian roadside dhaba. You can’t bookspace is tightand the decor is bare bones (think exposed brickworkfunctional furnishings and no-frills crockery)but the kitchen delivers on its promise. Home- recipes from the owners’ native Kolkata are reworked and recast as intriguing small plates with plenty of up-front fire and spice – as in egg curry masalathe house chaat with Norfolk potatoes or punchy venison and vermicelli doughnuts (a top call on the succinct menu). Alternativelyif sharing is your preferencego for bigger plates such as steamed sea bass infused with mustardpork ribs and tamarind kachumbar or spinach with tandoori paneer. For aftersthe must-have dessert is the Old Monk rum pudding – a boozy ‘bread and butter’ riffserved with an extra shot of liquor if you want it. Two dozen spice-friendly wines (from £30) match the food; otherwiseplump for a can of thirst-quenching Disco lager or a frisky gin wala Negroni.
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubsthis thoroughbred from the JKS group (TrishnaHoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of th… Read more
Originally inspired by colonial India’s Days of the Raj polo clubsthis thoroughbred from the JKS group (TrishnaHoppers etc) is a classy Mayfair package spread over two levels connected by a mirrored staircase. Most of the action takes place in the ground-floor dining room and barwith its richly upholstered leather seatingwhirring ceiling fansold prints and stag’s heads – not forgetting hunting trophies from the Maharaja of Jodhpur. The menu shines the spotlight on grillsgame and chopsall given a thrilling contemporary spin to match the gussied-up surroundings – from Goan- salmon tikka with tomato chutney to guinea fowl pepper fry served with a Malabar paratha or tandoori lamb chops unexpectedly pointed up with walnut chutney. Elsewherepork cheek vindaloo and a wild muntjac biryani sound invitingwhile fans of rogan josh and chicken butter masala also have plenty to cheer about. For something more esoterichome in on the assortment of ‘nashta’ small platesperhaps minced kid goat methi keema with pao bread or duck-egg bhurji scrambled with lobster and served alongside a Malabar paratha. Desserts (meetha) continue the mashed-up crossover themeas in a take on tiramisu involving rasgulla (a syrupysponge-like Asian classic) or a Basmati rice pudding (kheer) spiced with cardamom and accompanied by mango sorbet. The standalone bar dispenses cocktails and reinvented punchesalongside nibbles of Amritsari shrimps or Punjabi samosas with sweet/sour tamarind-spiked 'saunth' chutney. Otherwisespecially brewed 4th Rifles Pale Ale and a compendium of thoughtfully selected wines (including some English sparklers) suit the food admirably.
A neighbourhood favourite on the route of one of south Manchester's most characterful passeggiatasIndique continues to generate enthusiastic feedback. The kitchen's hand with flavour extends across its Indian street foodgrills… Read more
A neighbourhood favourite on the route of one of south Manchester's most characterful passeggiatasIndique continues to generate enthusiastic feedback. The kitchen's hand with flavour extends across its Indian street foodgrills and signature currieswith classic vegetable dishes especially well-judged. Striking presentation and the odd visual flourish may be contemporarybut they contribute to a sense of old-fashioned care.
Taking its name from the intricate 16th-century lace shawls of Kashmirthis lavish Mayfair spot has become a ‘beacon for those seeking both luxury and authenticity’ – a meticulously orchestrated celebration… Read more
Taking its name from the intricate 16th-century lace shawls of Kashmirthis lavish Mayfair spot has become a ‘beacon for those seeking both luxury and authenticity’ – a meticulously orchestrated celebration of India’s culinary heritage in the heart of London’s West End. Insidecolonial grandeur meets modern flair with softwarm lightingswathes of marblemother of pearl inserts and gorgeouscarefully curated artworks.
Jamavar’s refinedsophisticated design chimes perfectly with the foodwhich offers indulgenceinvention and meticulous attention to detail – especially when it comes to sourcing prime seasonal produce. Small plates pull in ideas and flavours from across the Subcontinentwith the peppery bite of a perfectly crisp, garlicky soft-shell crab vying with kathal bhel – an inventive twist on the classic theme with jackfruittamarind and sun-dried tomato taking centre stage (‘it’s street foodyesbut not as you know it,’ thought one reporter).
Elsewherethere is a lusciously rich Malvani prawn curry in a velvety coconut-infused saucewhile dum tarkari biryani is a fragrant delight with its delicate blend of spices and subtle nuances. Or look to the tandoor for a version of chicken tikka enlivened with sweet basilpickled radish and yoghurt or dip into the roster of curries – perhaps butter chicken or laal maas (eight-hour slow-cooked Hampshire lamb shank with Rajasthani chilli).
Skilfully crafted sides such as gobhi mutter (cauliflower with peas) add extra layers of taste and texture to proceedingswhile desserts are guaranteed to delight and surprise – as in a pistachio milk cake strewn with rose petals or mango rasmalai (‘a work of art’ combining a light wheat biscuit with mango cream and a tangy chutney). To drinkone reporter enjoyed the refreshing ‘tropical escapism’ of a Lychee Cooleralthough the hefty international wine list offers more than 25 tempting selections by the glass.
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eatwe have high hopes that this 'really good'all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor o… Read more
In an area of south London crying out for decent places to eatwe have high hopes that this 'really good'all-day Indian newcomer will succeed. Kachori certainly sticks out from the local competition. Found on the ground floor of a new development by Elephant and Castle tube stationit exudes coolness; the room is big and glossyscoring highly with its slick barblack-and-white chequered flooringdark wood furnishingsoval cut-glass lights and muslin canopies over gold-coloured banquettes. You might think you are in W1 buteven with the growing gentrification of this areait's unlike anywhere else in SE17. The kitchen is headed by Brinder Narula (ex-GymkhanaBenares)who has developed a menu inspired by the cooking of northern India – so expect small platesburgers with an Anglo-Indian twistbiryanistandooris and grillsas well as enticing larger plates. We started with the restaurant’s namesakea huge ball of truffle-infused green-pea kachori (a deep-fried sticky snack)as well as melt-in-your-mouth spice-infused guinea fowl tikka served with 'tempered curd rice'. Spot-on spicing was also a feature of bigger dishesfrom shelled jumbo prawns cooked in the tandoor and teamed with avocado raita to a richly favoured goat bhuna with cuminclovespickled ginger and turmericwhile a vegetarian stir-fry of soft portobello mushroom was neatly contrasted by the crunchiness of pak choi. To finishdo make room for the masala chai brûlée. Other plus points include friendly servicea fairly priced set luncha dozen cocktails and a short wine listwith bottles from £25.
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like TamarindKahani (the name means ‘story’ in Hindi) occupies a high-ceilin… Read more
A well-trodden restaurant site hard by Chelsea’s Cadogan Hall is the setting for this solo outing from ex-Tamarind chef Peter Joseph. Like TamarindKahani (the name means ‘story’ in Hindi) occupies a high-ceilinged basement room that has been gilded with luxe features (seductive low lightingstylish wall coveringscrimson banquettesarmchair seating)while food is prepared in an open-to-view kitchen. The chef made his name with a repertoire of dishes that fused Indian spices and cooking techniques with British ingredients – and Kahani’s menu tells a similar tale. Small plates open the show: seared scallops coated in star anise and served with smoked pepper chutney and shrimp pickle is typicalalthough veggies might prefer the spiced green-pea cake with cranberry chutney. Bigger dishes focus on the chargrill and tandoorfrom venison keema accompanied by a truffle naan to grilled stone bass coated with brown garlic and sun-dried tomato purée. Specials and ‘dawat’ (feasting) dishes are also worth a punt – perhaps a chargrilled sirloin kebab with truffle oilground fennel and royal cumin. Apart from a ‘medley of kulfis’desserts are westernised classics – toffee and date pudding with custard saucefor example. A full vegan menupre-theatre deals and even an Indian ‘weekend roast’ are further inducements for well-heeled Chelsea localswho are also happy to pay handsomely for exclusive spice-friendly bottles from the ritzy wine list.
Compellingly creative Indian cuisine in tasteful surroundings
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in factKutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although insp… Read more
The Sanskrit word ‘kutir’ means ‘a small cottage in the middle of nowhere’; in factKutir (the restaurant) occupies a luxe Chelsea townhouse not a million miles from Buckingham Palace – although inspiration comes from India's wildlife lodges ('away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life'). There's no doubting that chef Rohit Ghai's cooking is transportivewith its compellingly creative take on Indian cuisine including ‘expedition’ tasting menus (with optional wine pairings) that can ‘surprise and delight’.
Pressing the doorbell to gain entry adds to the sense of exclusivityas does the smart decor which references India's stunning natural world. The atmosphere is ‘perfect for special occasions’helped by staff who can be guaranteed to deliver ‘great service’; there’s also a delightful terrace for summer dining. Traditional ideas get decidedly modern treatmentas in a duck starter that is fruitily embellished with cranberrykumquatpickle and chutneywhile the tandoor yields such esotericsmoky delights as paneer tikka with sorrellime murabbatomato salsa and crispy rice or a quail naan with trufflemasala scrambled eggmince and oil.
Seafood also shows up well when it comes to main courses including wild jumbo prawns with coconut and curry leaf or pan-seared sea bass with jaggery and yoghurt rice. Guinea fowl arrives in a biryaniwhile desserts might feature a take on crème brûlée involving heritage carrotsreduced milk and orange. The globetrotting wine list has slim pickings below £40although there’s a decent choice by the glass or carafe. Otherwisedrink Indian lagerIPA or something from the innovative list of Indian-inspired cocktails.
There are some restaurants that surprise youas with this branch of the four-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refitit looks and feels just rightfrom its glowing golden lightsrich colours and comfortable chairs to the … Read more
There are some restaurants that surprise youas with this branch of the four-strong Masala Zone mini chain. After a refitit looks and feels just rightfrom its glowing golden lightsrich colours and comfortable chairs to the touches of glamour thrown in for good measure. But we shouldn’t be too surprised – this restaurant is part of a highly regarded groupincluding Chutney MaryVeeraswamy and Amayaowned by Ranjit MathraniNamitha and Camellia Panjabi. On offer is a short menu of Indian favourites from across the subcontinent: a comfortingly richsilky northern- butter chicken sitting adjacent to a version from Mangalore redolent of chilli and warming spices; a modern-day chicken tikka next to a classic korma; and a Goan prawn curry appearing alongside that northern Indian staplelamb rogan josh. Expect vegetable curriesbiryanis and thalistooand the excellent homemade paneer (prepared daily) is not to be missed. In additionthere’s a wide choice of street snacks served as startersperhaps gently spiced lamb sliders in caramelised onion pao bread andfrom Mumbai’s Chowpatty Beacha superb sprouted lentil bhel (a crispy salad tangy with tamarind); otherwisechoose five or seven small dishes to make a satisfying main or two-course meal. Keen prices and charming service ensure regular full housesand it’s worth getting into the mood by flirting with one of the spiced-up cocktails. The wine list works well with the food (everything is available by the glasscarafe or bottle).
Creative pan-Indian cuisine that's a cut above the local norm
Consistency is the watchword at this ‘beautiful’ family-run Indian restaurantand there’s hearty applause for its delicateprecise and creative approach to pan-Indian cuisine. By all means choose a classic jalf… Read more
Consistency is the watchword at this ‘beautiful’ family-run Indian restaurantand there’s hearty applause for its delicateprecise and creative approach to pan-Indian cuisine. By all means choose a classic jalfrezidhansak or kormabut the elegantly presented riches of Montaz are best displayed elsewhere on a contemporary menu that changes with the seasons.
As an openeryou might find samosas filled with slow-cooked diced lamb’s liver and potato or a clever chaat involving crispy Jerusalem artichokesweet mint chutney and pomegranate. Regional home- dishes are cooked low and slow – try the beef Chettinad with grated coconut and Kashmiri chilli marinade or tandoori grilled duck fired with green chilli and achari bhuna sauce. Also check out the Montaz signature dishes – perhaps 12-hour slow-cooked ox cheek with aloo bhurtawilted spinach and tomato kachumbar or nalli ghost (lamb shank with an onion sauce perfumed with rose petals).
To drink? A gentle Chenin Blanc from the Sula Vineyards in NashikMaharashtra is a fine matchthough it has to be said a cold Cobra beer hits the spot too. Readers appreciate the restaurant’s lovely vibe and superb serviceadding that everyone who dines here is ‘sure to have a full stomach and a smile on their face’.
Boundary-pushing Indian cuisine that pulses with innovation and flavour
There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sureit’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfort… Read more
There is a genuine feeling of affection radiating from the many readers’ reports we receive for this cutting-edge Indian restaurant. To be sureit’s an unashamedly smart destination and visitors appreciate the comfortablesoftly lit lounge and the dining room’s elegant neutrality as well as the sense of theatre provided by the spectacular open kitchen.
Birmingham-born Aktar Islam has been pursuing his own path here since 2018his culinary vigorous and imaginativea mix of aspirant riffs on familiar Indian recipes and stellar British seasonal produce. Once you’ve snagged a reservation expect clever texturesthrilling contrasts and exact spicing. From the palate-awakening shot of cucumbergreen chilli and apple juice served with snacks such as an ethereal oyster emulsion with perfectly judged chilli broth and coriander oil to petits fours that might include a pistachio-crumbed madeleine straight out of the oventhe chef’s intricately realised multi-course menus pulse with innovation and flavour.
Sublime tandoori sand carrot jumbled with mini lentil pakoras is given added vibrancy with mint and corianderwhile other stand-outs range from aloo tuk (pink fir potato with mango and tamarind) to a tantalising slice of tender hogget loin fringed with beautifully flavoured fat and served with its slow-cooked shoulder – made all the more memorable by a subtle hint of heat that lingers gently on the palate. Beyond these anchor pointswe were equally delighted by a butteryflaky just-baked milk breadand an intriguing ‘After Eight’ chocolate finale involving pine ice cream and mint compôte.
Service appears to have thawed since our last visit; the front of house staff and the chefs who delivered dishes to our table were on the ball and warmly welcoming. Drinks impress too. Cocktails blended to match the cuisine are a particular strengthand the wine list – also carefully tailored to complement the spicing– flies you first-class around the worldwith by-the-glass choices from £16.
* Avinash Shashidhara has announced his departure from the restaurant after a five-year stint. More details to follow.*
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but… Read more
* Avinash Shashidhara has announced his departure from the restaurant after a five-year stint. More details to follow.*
Avinash Shashidhara honed his craft at Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus (RIP) and the River Café but has gone back to his roots at this comfortably relaxed Indian restaurant on the site of the once-legendary Gaylord curry house. Pahli Hill (named after a Mumbai suburb) looks and feels just rightwith its glowing lightsfragrant aromascolourful Indian paintings and woven cane chairs. Limber up with a cocktail or two in the subterranean Bandra Bhai bar before returning upstairs for a menu of regional sharing plates executed with skillprecision and subtlety. Anything from the grill or tandoor is a sound betperhaps Cornish monkfish (marinated in mango pickle) with monk's beardgrilled corn and lime or meltingly tender lamb cutletsspiced with black peppercumin and curry leaves – all mollified by a cooling mint raita. Other top calls have included crisp Pondicherry fried squid with pumpkin and Guntur chilli chutneya gorgeous ‘home-’ fish curry packed with mussels and halibutand a dish of Chettinad- veal shin with black pepperfennel and chillibest eaten with some flaky flatbread fresh from the tandoor. Service does its job admirablyand there are plenty of thoughtfully chosen spice-friendly wines to match the food.
The edge-of-Leeds location isn't glamorous but Prashad continues to draw fans from all over Yorkshire; there are some very smart cars in the car park. Minal Patel's cooking and creativity have grown steadily over the years; … Read more
The edge-of-Leeds location isn't glamorous but Prashad continues to draw fans from all over Yorkshire; there are some very smart cars in the car park. Minal Patel's cooking and creativity have grown steadily over the years; her food has always been fragrantwith vivid aromatics the dominant featurebut today the most significant difference is in the presentation. What was once a fairly rustic offering is now a masterclass in creative plating without being outright dots-and-dribbles cheffy. The notion of an amuse-bouche was once a stretchbut now it’s likely you’ll get a spoon of slow-roasted dhal with gram-flour vermicelli and beetroot chutney. Sweet and earthyit’s the perfect way to kick-start a meal. Among the classics are kopra pethis (fresh coconut dough ballsprecisely sphericalzesty and moist) and mausmi ghota (essentially a crunchy-on-the-outside/soft-on-the-inside ball of spiky root ginger and herby mint with mashed Jerusalem artichokes)while sanku (a deeply traditional dosa) is presented as dinky ice-cream cones. Kofta (spiced lentil dough balls revved up with caraway-infused tomato rasam) hit all the senseswhile the paneer and cauliflower biryani is a salty-sweet-heat firework. The setting is a cavernous former pub but there's no doubt you're in an Indian restaurant (complete with flashes of pink bling); there's also a subtlesophisticated vibeemphasised by the seven-course tasting menua delicate distillation of regular dishes and a great introduction to the depth and complexity of Minal Patel's cooking. Excellent craft beer pairings match the foodCobra is on tapand there’s an all-vegan and organic wine list – in addition to cocktails and mocktails.
Specialising in the culinary traditions of Kerala in southern IndiaTharavadu generates a voluminous stream of plaudits from loyal customers. It has the kind of fanbase that not only returns regularlybut has acquired some knowl… Read more
Specialising in the culinary traditions of Kerala in southern IndiaTharavadu generates a voluminous stream of plaudits from loyal customers. It has the kind of fanbase that not only returns regularlybut has acquired some knowledge of the distinctive regional specialities the kitchen deals in. The former captain of India's test cricket teamVirat Kohliis a confirmed supporterand there ought to be no arguing with an endorsement like that. In the warm embrace of hospitable staffeverybody feels welcomeand the kitchen hits one highlight after another. The mutta roast startera preparation of boiled eggs in chilli-hot tomato and onionserved with appamis technically a breakfast dishbut who's counting? A more conventional way in might be with adipoli chemmeengrilled prawns alight with their spice marinadeserved with lemon chutney. Fans dream of the meen koottana classic coastal fish curry replete with Keralan seasonings and kokum mangosteenbest ordered with house paratha. Lamb mappas is a traditional Easter dish of the regional Christian communityincorporating spinach and a complex mix of garam masala and other spices. There's fresh okra in mustard as a side-orderzesty lemon rice to accompanyand cardamom and saffron vermicelli if you've any room left. A decent wine listfrom £17.95should cope with the cooking.
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone currytandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the year… Read more
'Punjabi beef keema and marrow bone currytandoori spiced monkish served on the bone... hell yeah,' exclaimed one fan. The Chilli Pickle's menu is a tantalising proposition and one that has continued to develop over the years; any regulars mourning the absence of an old favourite (take a bowoxtail Madras)will always find something new to try. Alun and Dawn Sperring's colourful restaurant opposite the city's award-winning Jubilee Library positively rocks when it's busy – which is most of the time. The Subcontinent's multifarious regions provide inspiration – especially for lunchtime 'street eats and small plates'which might take you from Punjabi samosa chaats to BBQ Mangalore king prawns inspired by South Indian traditions. Generous thalis are another lunchtime favourite. The tandoor and sigri grill are at the heart of thingsfor 'fabulous breads' or whole sea breamwhile the surf 'n' turf sizzler is a veritable feast with everything from prawns to Kashmiri best end of lamb. Spicing is forthrightas it should bebut not everything is hotwith curries such as the richly indulgent tandoori butter chicken suiting milder palates. Vegetarians do very well indeed – the clay-pot sabsi curry which comes with an idli dumplingfor example. Many dishes arrive with their own bespoke accompaniments such as vibrant pickles or breadand sides can be added if required. Don't swerve the dessert menu as maple gulab jamun and suchlike are no afterthought. The wine list is arranged by with handy advice for food pairingwhile cocktails and a decent range of beers should bolster your options.
If you can’t get a decent Ruby in Bradford then it’s a poor reflection on a city that’s home to some of the most venerable ‘curry houses’ in the land. Not that longevity necessarily means quality but … Read more
If you can’t get a decent Ruby in Bradford then it’s a poor reflection on a city that’s home to some of the most venerable ‘curry houses’ in the land. Not that longevity necessarily means quality but there’s usually a reason a restaurant’s clientele stays loyal. The International has retained a cult standing since 1976 and it's still family run. There is little secret to its success: reliably goodfreshly cookedhomely food served in a livelymodern but unpretentious setting at exceptionally good-value prices. Plus waiting staff who welcome you in as part of The International family with jolly smiles and service that is speedyhelpful and patient when you’re wavering over what to choose. There are plenty of tried-and-tested old-school favourites such as shami kebabssamosaslamb chops shashlikkarahisbiryanis and baltis. Traditional Punjabi desi dishes are also worth exploring – lamb on the bonepaya (lamb's trotters)maghaz (brains) and nihari (baby lamb cooked overnight) – alongside more complex ideas such as chicken nawabi khana and lamb masaledar. The menu indicates the spiciness of each dish but individual preferences and requests are graciously taken into account. Vegetarian choice is exemplary andgiven the generous portionsit's quite possible to make a full meal of several ‘sides’ or appetisers – and no one bats an eyelid if you want to take leftovers home. All main dishes are served with a choice of chapatisrotisrice or super-fluffy naan. There's no dessert menuand no alcohol either (though you can bring your own)but there is a selection of mocktails and lassi. The International’s sister restaurant is on Sticker Lanewith seating for 300.
Following on from the Tamil Prince in BarnsburyPrince Durairaj (of Roti King fame) has repeated the formula in what was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Streetjust behind Angel station. The Tamil Crown is almost a carbon copy … Read more
Following on from the Tamil Prince in BarnsburyPrince Durairaj (of Roti King fame) has repeated the formula in what was the old Charles Lamb pub on Elia Streetjust behind Angel station. The Tamil Crown is almost a carbon copy of its predecessoralthough it feels calmer and there’s more space: the venue is spread over two floors with a traditional dining room upstairs and a ground-floor space including a barcomplete with a cosy fireplacecandles and a sofa – ideal if you fancy a pint and a quick bite.
Staff are keen to upsellbut we prefer to keep it cheap and simple by ordering just one dish – the beef masala uthappam (like a smallerthick dosa spread with spicy meat) is an ‘absolute standout’. Quite a few staple dishes have made the move from the Prince to the Crownnotably regional classics from the eponymous Tamil Nadu region of the subcontinent: the crispy okra friesrobata lamb chops and Thanjavur chicken curry are all present and correctalthough our prawn moilee suffered from cloying coconut overkill.
The billowingflaky roti breads are excellent (as you would expect given Prince Durairaj’s background) and drinkers have plenty of ales on tapas well as some spiced-up cocktails and well-chosen wines. Also check out the Sunday menuwith its masala-roasted chickens and lamb shanks plus Indian vegroast potatoes and gravy.
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islingtonthis regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leesonit off… Read more
Occupying a former pub in the Barnsbury quarter of Islingtonthis regional Indian restaurant has become a huge hit with knowledgeable locals. Set up by chef Prince Durairaj (previously at Roti King) and JKS GM Glen Leesonit offers a smartly attired interior featuring dark walls and a weathered bare-wood floorplus bar counter seating and a bamboo-shielded terrace out front. As the name indicatesthe cooking is at least partly oriented to the southern states of India – and it displays plenty of brio. Proceedings might start with fried prawn and curry-leaf varuvaldressed in an assertive spicy paste. Hailing from the northern reaches of the Subcontinentthe hugepuffed chana bhatura (deep-fried bread accompanied by chickpeas and raita) is something of a showstopper. Returning to Tamil Naduthe Chettinad lamb curry has impressive depth of flavourwith exhilarating spicing and tender meator there is an equally zesty Thanjavur chicken dish. Smallcandy-like chunks of paneer are the stars of a butter masala. Durairaj's previous experience shows in the superb buttery rotian accompaniment that should not be missed. To concludegulab jamun is unctuously sweet (as expected)but with a firmermore satisfying texture than is typical. If that seems a bit much after the substantial preceding disheslook to mango lassi for refreshment. There is some sound drinking on offer toowith cocktails and mocktails boasting Indian flavours – the rebooted Piña Colada with cinnamontoasted coconut and lime zest is a doozy. An imaginative wine selection opens at £29 (£8 a glass)while water is served in repurposed gin bottles.
Operating since 1984 on Soap StreetThis & That is thought to be the birthplace of ‘rice ‘n’ three’. After the influx of migrant workers to Manchester’s textile mills in the 1960sSouth Asian fo… Read more
Operating since 1984 on Soap StreetThis & That is thought to be the birthplace of ‘rice ‘n’ three’. After the influx of migrant workers to Manchester’s textile mills in the 1960sSouth Asian food started being served across the citypredominantly in the industrial centre of town – the Northern Quarter. Canteens like This & That were originally created to feed the workers of the nearby warehousesbut nowadays they are filling the bellies of people who live in towntourists and office workers alike. Quite literally a plate of rice with a choice of three curriesthis plate of food has been around since the 1980s and continues to be one of the most popular choices in the city for a quick wholesome meal under 10 quid. Whilst rice ‘n’ three is thought to have started at This & Thatmany places serving the meal are still going strong today. Check out our local guide.
Taking its inspiration from the Subcontinent's street-food vendorsUrban Choola offers an inviting mix of curry-house stalwarts and less predictable dishes. Expect anything from rogan joshcreamy Goan fish curryrich dhal makha… Read more
Taking its inspiration from the Subcontinent's street-food vendorsUrban Choola offers an inviting mix of curry-house stalwarts and less predictable dishes. Expect anything from rogan joshcreamy Goan fish curryrich dhal makhani and sticky gulab jamun to 'incredibly flavoursome' onionkale and spinach bhajiyas or nalli gosht (tender osso buco- lamb shank in a tomato-based sauce) – all delivered with due care and attention to detail. Cocktails complement a short but reasonably priced selection of spice-friendly wines. All in allgood-value food backed by warmwelcoming service.
Atul Kochhar was among the first generation of chefs to reinvent Indian cooking for the modern age. At his second Marlow address (he also runs Sindhu by the riverside), a gentle atmosphere is created by means of muted woodlan… Read more
Atul Kochhar was among the first generation of chefs to reinvent Indian cooking for the modern age. At his second Marlow address (he also runs Sindhu by the riverside), a gentle atmosphere is created by means of muted woodland coloursa sequence of matching framed pictures and festoon lighting across the ceiling.
Howeverthere is plenty to excite the imagination on a series of resourceful menus that might feature tandoori broccoli with tomato chutney and pomegranate to startor perhaps baked spiced scallops with cauliflower purée and herb-scented ghee. Spicing is generally found to be on the mild sideso don't expect to be blasted with chilli – certainly not when lobster cooked in the tandoor comes with caramelised tomato and coconut korma alongside a grilled pineapple salad.
A knowledgeable reader was particularly impressed by what Kochhar makes of traditional dishes like dhal makhani and saag goshtbut it is the more speculative ideas such as muntjac venison with aubergineceleriac purée and a sauce of berries and chocolate that will tantalise a novelty-hungry crowd. By the time desserts are offeredthe influence of Subcontinental cooking may have receded to a dot on the Indian Ocean horizon – or so it seems with carrot cake and walnut brittleor chocolate fondant with berry salsa. Prepare your palate with an apposite cocktail such as a fragrantly fizzy jaggery and coriander mojitobefore moving on to full-bodied wines with bags of tang.
Like all good thingsthe UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit MathraniNamitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney MaryAmaya and the Masala Z… Read more
Like all good thingsthe UK’s oldest Indian restaurant (estab. 1926) has spawned a string of imitators under the aegis of Ranjit MathraniNamitha and Camellia Panjabi (the family behind Chutney MaryAmaya and the Masala Zone group)but Veeraswamy simply shrugs off the years and carries on as before. A lift whisks you from street level to the first-floor dining room where large windows overlook Regent Street and the warmcossetting decor nods to the Days of the Raj with vintage memorabilia. Backstagechefs deftly layer flavour upon flavour in home- cooking that blends renditions of the classic repertoire with some exceptional house specials. Ideas are lifted from all over India: Malvani prawn curry from the south Konkan coast comes in a rich sauce heady with turmericred chillicoconut and dried kokum flowerwhile an unusual crab biryani from Bhatkal (in the coastal area of western India) is a superb exploration of the power of aged basmati rice to absorb flavours – here saffron and cinnamon leaf – while letting the delicacy of the fresh crustacean to shine. Street food puts in an appearance too: momos (Tibetan dumplings) are now fully absorbed into Indian street culture – here they are filled with chickensoftly steamed and finished in the tandoor. The sourcing of ingredients is important too. Welsh lamb supplies the tender chops that are grilled with a blend of clovesfennel and rose petaland go so well with a fine pineapple curry. And one of the most likeable things on the menu is the excellent homemade paneer prepared using full-fat Jersey milk and served in a light tomato sauce with peppersgarden peasand cashew nuts. Naan fingers with garlic and sea salt are light and softservice is friendly and attentiveand wines have been chosen for compatibility with the food.