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Midtown

Italian

Oretta Midtown

Written By

Christine Peddie

“Oretta che bella.” As far as slogans gothis one is spot on. Oretta Midtown is beautiful. Like the fictional woman it’s named forit’s also vivaciousstylishwelcoming and fiercely Italian. As suited to intimate dinners as it is to exuberantlarge gatheringsthis is a spot for approachablestaunchly traditional Italian fareplated for modern tastes. With a kitchen inspired by nonnapaired with a room that's as naturally alluring as a young Sophia Lorenthe restaurant is a welcome addition to the bustling Yonge-Eglington scene.

Opened in early Februarythe sprawling new space is as chic and striking as its sister on King Street West. Designed by Commute Design Studiothe same team that brought the original to lifeit’s no wonder that this 200-seat restaurant also has to spare. Bathed in natural light that streams through floor-to-ceiling windowsthe sunnywarm room comes alive thanks to a playful use of finishes in a rainbow of Mediterranean-inspired tones. Coral-hued stools flank a 16-seatmarble barwhile banquettes -- in indigoolive-green and dusty rose -- line the walls. Throughoutelegant metallic accents and luxe finishes elevate the space.

Housed on two floorsthe restaurant includes a spacious main room that extends toward an open kitchen at the rear. Areas throughout can be curtained off for private partiesfor groups of up to 80 guests. Those more interested in the cooking than the crowdwill want to reserve the chef’s counter where views of cooks sautéing and stirringchopping and plating ingredients are guaranteed to entertain. Special occasions are best partnered with dinner at the chef’s tableavailable for a maximum of eight diners. Herea seven-coursefamily- tasting menu gives guests a chance to enjoy some of chef de cuisine Darren Couto’s finest fare.

As at his other restaurants (Capocaccia Trattoria and Oretta King West)owner Salvatore Mele has entrusted his culinary vision to a young group of dynamic cooks who share his passion for unfussyquality Italian food. Under executive chef Gabriele Di Marcochef Couto guides the Oretta Midtown team in executing a wide-ranging menu of disheswhere nearly everything is made in-house. From a variety of starters to pizzaspastaheavier mains and house-made dessertsthe menu covers a swath of Italian regionswhile appealing to an assortment of tastes. Featuring more seafood than at the original locationOretta Midtown is also the place for anyone craving briny bites.

With a goal of making the most authentic Italian foodchef Couto and his team source the best possible ingredientslocally and from abroad. Staples from Cucina Fine Foods and Global Elegant Foods find their way onto the menu as often as produce from industry favourites including Leonard WholesaleetobiGrowand Mark’s Mushroomssays Couto.

Visually arrestingthanks to a cheery blend of sliced orangesgrapefruitwatermelon radish and chiliinsalata agrumi is what every winter-weary Canadian craves. Like edible sunshine dressed in fine olive oilthe salad is citrusybittersmooth and brightand makes a strong case for starting out light.

Stillsince fried is everyone's friendyou’ll want to dive into the team’s carciofi fritti and arancini alla n’duja. Unless you’re one of the few who enjoy the hassle of wrestling with artichokes at homeseize the opportunity to enjoy a Roman-inspired dish at Oretta. Lightly fried until crisp and served with a pungentcreamy bagna cauda for dippingthis team’s carciofi will have you reaching for more.

Made in the suppli the kitchen’s arancini are a luxurious combination of saffron rice and mozzarellaheld together with béchamel and spiced with n’duja pork sausage. Served warm on a wooden boardunder a downy blanket of freshly-grated Parmesaneach arancino’s goldencrunchy crust yields to a suppleintensely flavourful interior.

A perfect example of the kitchen’s way with boldingredient-driven fare is the polipo appetizer. Set atop a traditional Sicilian chickpea fritter called panellasimply grilled octopus is dressed in a decidedly-Mediterranean mixture of olivescapersred onionand garlic. With n’duja saucefennel seedsand parsley as garnisheach smokypiquant bite expertly flaunts one of the ocean's sweetest treasures.

You’ll want to save room for mainsas chef’s menu includes plenty of inviting dishes to explore. Pizza may sound run-of-the-mill butthanks to an imported Moretti pizza oven combined with an exacting dough recipeOretta Midtown’s pies are chewyblisteredand worthy of a spot on your table. Among the 10 on offerthe porchettawith fontinashaved Italian spiced pork bellyand rosemary-herbed Yukon gold potatoand the Tirolesewith taleggiospeckand applestand out for their unique flavour combos. With tomato saucefior di lattepork sausagered onionbasil and chilithe salsiccia is a simpler option that’s no less satisfying. Creamy from the cheesewith a peppery biteyou’ll crave this pizza long after the last slice is nothing more than a memory.

Chef Couto’s risotto ai frutti di mare transports guests on aroma alone. One tastebest accompanied by a well-chilled glass of Italian whiteand you may very well feel the Amalfi Coast’s radiant sun on your face and salt air in your hair. Made from Gli Aironi carnaroli riceshellfish brothsaffron and an abundance of octopusshrimp and Salt Spring Island musselsthe dish fuses Italian culinary tradition with Canadian ingredients in the best possible way.

A unique option for date nightor simply tables of twoare the restaurant’s Servizio Al Tavolo dishes. Choose between cacio e pepe or amatriciana pastaand enjoy pasta finished table-side on one of two rolling pasta carts that are sure to be in heavy rotation. Tossed in an impressive wheel of Parmigiano Reggianothen finished with pecorino fonduta and black pepperthis consummate cacio e pepe is as cheesy as they come. Equally excitingthe team’s amatriciana is baked under a round of pizza doughthen plated at your table with pieces of the bread for dipping in the guanciale-seasoned sauce.

An Italian-heavy wine listcompiled by sommelier Alessandro Pozzaincludes wines sourced from every region of the Bel Paese. You'll find plenty of bubblesfrom bottles of prosecco to Lambruscoalong with roséswhites and skin-contact orange wines. A comprehensive list of reds covers everything from Chiantis to Brunellos and Super Tuscans. All toldthere’s plenty to swig with the kitchen’s classic Italian cuisine.

Not to be overlooked is an assortment of cocktails that take you on a grand tour of Italian flavours. From the norththere’s the Serenissimaa take on Venice’s famed Bellini. Made with grappaaperitivopeachlemonegg white and Proseccothe drink is frothyslightly bitter and a joy to behold in a supremely sophisticatedsaffron-coloured Rialto coupe.

From further southnamed for one of the eight Aeolian Islands located off the coast of Sicilythe Filicudi “tastes of a Sicilian sunset.” Slightly savourycitrusy and bittersweetthanks to sundried-tomato-infused ginCampariCocchi Rosablood orange and an olive garnishthis unique refresher is meant to be sipped slowlyas the sun melts into the horizon.

Incredibly popular on King Streetthe Oretta formula is sure to attract crowds in Midtown. Open seven days a weekthe spot offers brunch on weekendsand will soon introduce its popular Aperitivo hours1/2-priced bottles of wine on Mondaysand a patiofor warmer weather. “We’re onto some really good things,” says Coutoof the concept that effortlessly combines familiar favourites with singular surprises. “It’s about getting passionate people that don’t mind putting the work in,” he addsexplaining that running an efficient restaurant of this size requires drive and exceptional organization. Opening on the heels of two trying yearsOretta Midtown appeals to cooks eager to sharpen their skills and guests keen to enjoy a spot where a youthful vibe and joyful approach to cooking are evident in every move. More than just a pretty placeOretta Midtown embodies a feeling of uncomplicated delight. It’s a place to relaxto let looseand to enjoy life’s simplest pleasures. And that’s a beautiful thing.

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