
The view from the village of Old PyliKosthe DodecaneseGreece. Anetta Starowicz/Shutterstock
For many if not most visitorsKos means beaches – and this Greek island has some of the finest sandy stretches of the Dodecaneseespecially around the package-tourism hub of Kardamena in the south. Other spots – especially Mastihari on the north coastand Kamari in the far southwest – offer superb deep-blue waters with far fewer crowds.
And Kos contains many treasures beyond its sandy shorestoo. Mighty crags loom over the islands and give way to lush valleyswhile millennia-old Corinthian columns poke through rampant wildflowers. The island has deep links to mythology: it is the sacred land of Asclepiusthe god of healing. Hippocratesthe father of modern medicine (who lent his name to the oath all doctors today take)was born hereand Kos was the site of the world’s very first hospital.
In Kos Townits lively capitalancient Greek ruins are scattered at every turnwith a mighty medieval castle keeping watch over the harbor. Farther inlandand just a few kilometers away from townthe island retains considerable wildernesswith the rugged Dikeos mountains soaring to peaks almost 850m above the sea.
From beaches to ruins to inland adventureshere are seven experiences that showcase all Kos has to offer.
1. Consider the rich history of Kos Town
Fronted by a superb medieval castleKos Town is a handsome harbor community with an array of ruins from the GreekRoman and Byzantine eras. The centrally located Archaeological Museum occupies an elegant building built during the Italian occupation of WWII. Its wonderful galleries contain a wealth of sculptures from the Hellenistic to late Roman eraswith a statue of Hippocrates and a 3rd-century-CE mosaic as the star attractions.
In the 14th centurythe Knights of St John took more than a century to construct their magnificent Castle of the Knights. This means its architecture encompasses several historic periods – a delight for history buffs. Note that much of the castle currently remains closed for restoration.
Planning tip: Cycling is very popular on Kos and a great way to get around; options abound for renting a pair of wheels. Bike lanes thread all through Kos Townwith the busiest route running along the waterfrontconnecting the town with Lambi to the north and Psalidi to the south.
2. Compare Kos Town’s ancient and modern central squares
Occupying a large area south of the castlethe Ancient Agora was an important marketplaceand the political and social hub of ancient Kos. Its landmarks include a massivecolumned stoathe ruins of a shrine to Aphroditethe 2nd-century BCE Temple of Hercules and a 5th-century Christian basilica.
Adjacent to the Ancient Agora is Plateia Platanou (Platanos Sq)a lovely cobblestone square that shows off the charm and sedate pace of Kos Town at its best. Sitting in a cafe hereyou can pay your respects to Hippocrates’ plane tree: the ancient doctor himself is said to have taught his pupils in its shade. While the tree must be one of Europe’s oldest planesit almost surely doesn’t date back more than 200 years – yet it’s stately enough for the story to ring true.
A short walk away (and across from the Archaeological Museum)Dimotiki Agora is a great place to score well-priced local produce. Fragrant with spicesthis lively open-arched market also has a cornucopia of vendors selling locally made honeysnatural soapsbonbonssandalwood spoonsmythological curios and Kalymnian sponges.
Planning tip: Linger at an outdoor table at Select Restaurant: it’s right in the center of townshaded by trees and has straightforwarddelicious food (you can’t go wrong with the grilled octopus and a salad).
3. Flee the crowds by heading to the island’s southwest beaches
Heading to the far southwest of the islandyou’ll find a few truly lovely beaches that have yet to be touched by huge resorts. For a nature-based experience with few(er) resourcesMagic Beach is a great spot. If you prefer to lie out in your birthday suitExotic Beach nearby is a naturist option. Lagada Beach (also called Banana Beach) also has great appeal.
SadlyAgios Stefanos Beachat the island’s far western endhas been ruined by a massive resort behind. Neverthelessthis small beachfront promontory offers up the always-photogenic islet of Kastriwith its tiny church. Though the island lies offshoreit’s within swimming distance.
On the west coastAgios Theologos Beach is backed by meadow bluffs carpeted in olive grovesand feels far removed from the resort bustle. Delightfullythere’s not much to do here except swim and sunbathe.
Planning tip: If you’re staying in Kos TownLambi Beach2km outside of the centeris a busy strip with hotels and restaurantsand popular with windsurfers. Continuing west along the coastline toward the village of Tigakithe crowds thin outand there are unservicedwild-ish areas where you can swim and relax on the sand.
4. Settle down for a bit in the perfect beach village of Mastihari
If you want a full day or a full week in the sunmake a beeline for Mastihari. Barely a villagethis delightful old-fashioned beach resort holds everything a sunseeker could need. Herea lovely broad strip of powder-fine sand is ringed by tamarisk treesa clutch of whitewashed rental studios and small hotelsand a row of good waterfront tavernas and bars. While there’s no historic core and not much of architectural interestthe town is extremely appealingand far more pleasant than many of the island’s other resort villages.
Planning tip: Leave your Mastihari dining needs to Makisthe proprietor of an eponymous restaurant in town. Expect a genuine Greek experienceas Makis whips up seafood and grilled meats at incredible prices.
5. Discover Asklepieionan ancient site of healing
The island’s most important ancient siteAsklepieion stands on a pine-covered hill 3km southwest of Kos Towncommanding lovely views across the water toward Türkiye. A religious sanctuary devoted to Asclepiusthe god of healingthe site also served as a medical center and a schoolfounded in the 3rd century BCE – according to legendby Kos-born Hippocrates himself. (In realityhe was long dead by then; the training here was inspired by his teachings.) Until the sanatorium was destroyed by an earthquake in 554 CEpeople came from far and wide for treatment.
The ruins occupy three levelswith the propylaeum (approach to the main gate)Roman-era public baths and remains of guest rooms on the first level. The second holds an altar of Kyparissos Apollowith the 1st-century-BCE Temple to Apollo to the east and the first Temple of Asclepiusbuilt in the 4th century BCEto the west. The remains of its successorthe once-magnificent 2nd-century-BCE Temple of Asclepiusare on the third level. Climb a little fartherto the cool pine woods abovefor the best views of all. A small museum on the path down preserves ancient inscriptions.
Planning tip: Bus 3 runs hourly from Kos Town to the site. You can also reach the site via a pleasantif uphillbike ride.
6. Learn about ancient medicine at the Hippocratic Garden
A little-known place a short distance from Asklepieionthe Hippocratic Botanic Garden & International Hippocratic Foundation is modest – but its small collection delights and inspires if you give it your full attention. The smalltext-heavy exhibition on Hippocrates provides context on why he is so important to the development of medicine as we know it. He’s credited with separating medicine from religion and superstitionarguing in his travelsmedical practice and writings that disease was not a punishment by the gods but rather the product of environmental factorsdiet and life. A modern notion indeed.
The highlight is the botanic gardenwith its plantings of herbs and plants that were used in Hippocratic times. Don’t expect neat rows of plants or well-pruned specimens: its scrappy feel is intentionalwith plants left to grow in the conditions they would have in ancient times.
Insider tip: In the galleriesobserve how the ancient medical instruments on display don’t look all that different from the ones in use today.
7. Explore beautiful mountain villages on a daylong road trip
Scattered on the green northern slopes of the Dikeos mountainsKos’ villages are real gemsand visiting them makes for a delightful day on the road. Here’s a 13km-long circuit that will show you the island’s interior.
Your first stop should be Agios Dimitriosa village abandoned in WWII; all that remains now are a village church and the cute Haihoutes cafe. Nexthead west to the mountain village of Lagoudi Ziaonce one of Kos’ prettiest villages but now essentially one very touristy street that’s frequented by busloads of tourists.
Dodge the crowds by doubling back to Asfendiouwhere you’ll be rewarded with great views and beautiful churches – and most likely have them to yourself. Continue 5km farther west toward the less commercialized village of Pyli. Just before the villagea left turn leads to Old Pyliwhose extensive medieval remains are scattered amid the towering rocks and pine trees of a highvery magical hillside. The summit here is crowned by the stark ruins of Pyli Castle: the whole place is so untamed you half expect Pangod of the wildto pop up.
Planning tip: In Agios Dimitriosbe sure to check out Haihoutes cafe’s attached “museum,” a replica of a traditional homeplus photos in the wee church showing life as it used to be. In the eveningHaihoutes turns into a cafe-barand there’s sometimes live musiceverything from island music to rembetika (Greek blues).
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Greece guidebookpublished in January 2025.
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