London to Barcelona: Why you should skip the high-speed service in favor of a night train via Paris

A multi-stop itinerary from London to Barcelona – via Paris and the Pyrenees – is a train lover’s dream.

High in the Pyrenees on a sunnysilent morningI had the rare feeling of leaving the modern world completely behind for a few moments.

I was standing at an international border blocked to road traffic by a jumble of rocks and debris. It was strange to find such an off-course place on this journey – I had been traveling in a nearly straight line between three of Europe’s great cities – but good fortune and a search for adventure had brought me to this strange and deserted frontier post.

Anyone who knows the history of travel between France and Spain might think I had arrived at Canfrancthe vast white elephant of a border station hidden away in the mountains that separate these countries. (The station fell asleep for decades before its recent reincarnation as a high-end hotel.) In factI was 200km (125 miles) further easta short stroll from the international station of Latour-de-Carol–Enveitg (named for the two settlements nearest to it).

Gray-green mountains stretched steeply upwards all around mewith rolling farmland below. Stepping through the makeshift barricade (an apparent remnant from COVID-era restrictionsoverlooked for removal)I took a few steps into Spain – then crossed back againtaking in for a moment the arbitrary nature of a land frontier. Then it was time to return to the station in time for my onward connection.

London to Paris is easy enough; onward from theremany of Europe’s great cities can be reached quickly and easily. Between France and Spainmost people take the high-speed TGVpassing through NîmesMontpellier and into Cataloniareaching Barcelona via Girona and Figueres. Great journeys are rarely about speedhoweverand the alternative is not only tempting for its obscurity but also for its excellent value. So after making the familiar journey from London’s St Pancras International to the Gare du Nord in Parisrather than take the RER suburban train to the Gare de LyonI opted instead for a late-afternoon crosstown walk to the grand façade of Austerlitz station.

Despite being in the process of a lengthy renovationthere’s a lot to love about this terminus. Its lack of high-speed services made it feel much quieter and calmer than other stations in Parisand it’s a short walk from the delights of the Fifth Arrondissementincluding the Jardin des PlantesParis Mosque and the bars and restaurants around Jussieu metro station. Hereyou’ll find many places for a nightcap before the evening departure south.

An overnight treat for travelers

As with many sleeper trains across EuropeFrench Intercités de Nuit services are enjoying a revival as travelersrail companies and governments embrace the convenienceenvironmental benefits and sheer fun of snoozing your way to your destination. Previously canceled routes such as Paris to Nice are being reinstatedwith plans for more on the way. The route I was travelingfrom Paris to Latour-de-Carolis one of only two French routes that never went awaystretching to the high-altitude edge of the country and providing a vital connection to the capital for far-flung French citizens.

This train wasit turns outa treat for travelers. Pulling out on timewe ran at a leisurely overnight pace to ToulouseFrance’s fifth-largest city and gateway to the far south. As dawn brokewe traveled up the valley of the Ariège Riverwith the scenery getting more spectacular as the Pyrenees emerged in their full glory. At a couple of the stops on the finalmost scenic section of the linethe train dawdled in the morning sunallowing passengers a leg stretch and a taste of the elevated air. Stations like Mérens-les-Vals and Andorre-L’Hospitalet felt highremote and wildwith the early-hour lack of people contributing to the sense of wonder.

High in the Pyreneesa fascinating station

We arrived at Latour-de-Carol without fanfare. Indeedthere weren’t many other passengers along for the ride on as pleasant a final stretch of railway line as I could remember. I counted a mere 13 other passengers quietly getting off hereunhurriedall with some time to kill before the connection to Barcelona. Perfectly placed to take advantage of the need for somewhere to pass the time (and the possibly greater need for coffeegiven the absence of even a hot drink service on the train) was the Bistrot de la Garedirectly opposite the station. The friendly staff roused themselves into life as their morning’s customers approached thema basket of just-in-time baguettes delivered just ahead of the procession of suitcases and backpacks coming toward the front door. Caffeine was certainly welcomeand fueled a proper exploration of our surroundings for the remaining 90 or so minutes.

The station was as beautifully situated as others along the linebut far larger – it even features the longest covered platform in Europe. Tracks run off in three directions. As well as the north-south French route I’d been onthe scenic Petit Train Jaune (Little Yellow Train) heads off eastward toward Perpignanfollowing a mountainous route through tunnels and over a dramatic suspension bridgeand stopping France’s highest stationBolquère Eyne (1592m / 5223ft). Across the tracksanother platform hosts the Rodalies (Catalonian railways) service that would shortly take me on to Barcelona.

Almost uniquelythese three trains operate on three different track gauges. Not that there were too many other people investigating on the day I visited: judging by the bemused questioning I received from a member of the station crew as I explored the platformsit seemed I was the only person sufficiently rail-fixated to appreciate the uniqueness of this rail junction.

Beyond the stationthe historical context of the area became clearer. Two different memorials to soldiers and their families who had fled into France at the end of the Spanish Civil War vividly showed how this routehowever sleepy it felt nowhad once been a critical corridor. And then there was that border: an unforgettably quietbeautiful and eerie leg stretch along a silent country lane.

In the meantimea lonely-looking Rodalies train had rolled in and was idling – not exactly ready for the off but able-looking enough. If this unassuming train looked like a suburban service from Barcelona that had got lost and ended up in the wrong countrythat’s because that’s pretty much what it was. A few minutes before boardingI followed the platform sign labeled “Espagna,” boarded the largely empty train and sat there looking at blank information screenspondering the possibility that I might have gotten this all wrong.

Onward to Barcelona

At the allotted hourhoweverthe train growled to lifethe doors beeped to a close and we rumbled off. Very slowly. A few minutes laterwe were in Spain at the frontier town of Puigcerdaand continued to potter downhill through a succession of seemingly silent Catalan villagesshutters on stone buildings closed hardwith only the occasional hiker or student hopping on board.

This is a line that can be enjoyed in several stages. The fortified town of Ribes de Freser is the jumping-off point for the Vall de Núria rack railwayopening up hiking in the summer and skiing in the winter. There’s a 1200-year-old monastery and hiking trails galore at Ripollfrom where more frequent trains leave for Barcelona than the three-daily Latour-de-Carol–Enveitg service.

Over three and a half hoursthis train rattled southeast – and the signs of the Barcelona suburbs began to emerge. Slowlythe train began to fill up with obviously city-bound commuters; instead of forests and hillssigns of industry and motorways emerged. Finallyour once almost melancholically quiet route joined up with other lines to pass underground through the heart of Barcelona. This epic terminated at L’Hospitalet de Llobregata few stops southwest beyond the streets of the city’s Barri Gòtic and El Raval neighborhoods.

I disembarked at Sants stationBarcelona’s main terminus. Vast and modern with underground tracksit lacked the sense of occasion of a historic station like crosstown Estació de Françayet shared the energetic excitement of arrival in any truly great metropolis. It was the end of the road for me after 1300km (808 miles) – but it need not have been. From herefast trains head out across Spain to continue the adventure. The ferry terminals for the Balearic Islands of IbizaMallorca and Menorca are also a short metro ride away.

I found a street-side table in the lively Collblanc neighborhoodoverlooking both the city and some of the tracks I’d just traveled onand sat still for a few minutes. It was one finalgloriously slow moment on a journey filled with them.

How to make it happen

London to Latour-de-Carol can be booked by a combination of EurostarSNCF and Trainline. The Paris–to–Latour-de-Carol sleeper has seats (from €22)six-berth couchette compartments (from €44) and four-berth sleeper rooms (from €68). Solo passengers will share unless they book the entire cabin using the “espace privatif” button. Tickets generally go on sale 90 days before departure.

The Latour-de-Carol–to–Barcelona train (€12) cannot be booked online. A conductor passes through the trainissuing tickets. Note that these tickets cannot be used to exit stations in Barcelona via the ticket machinesso you will need to locate a staff member and show them your ticket.

For foodby far the best option is to stock up in Paris with any provisions you might need for the night train. Unless you’ve pre-orderedthere’s no way to buy drinkssnacks or breakfast until the end of the journey.