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Rear swaybar diameter

15K views 30 replies 7 participants last post by  toymaster  
#1 ·
Hmm interestingi was reading a thread on Wastoflife. The OP was having issues stuffing his rear axle and he questioned the Swaybar diameter.
5/83/4 even 7/8 was brought up.

Up till now i thought our rear swaybar only came in one diameter 5/8

i actually measured .680 which is closer to 11/16

Curious what people come up with ?


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#2 ·
I could see a difference in diameter being done. No different then coil rates being different on a 2 door soft top vs a 4 door hard top with tow package. Too much rate on the sway bar can cause lift on the opposite side.
My wife has the hard top JKU with tow package out right now so I can't help with the measurement.
 
#3 ·
Its just funny the JK is on year 8first time seeing this.

Iirc the guy was running MC 3.5 with 6 pac shocks. Either 1-2" bumpstop and he could not fully stuff his rear axle with the swaybar attached.







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#5 ·
#7 ·
#9 ·
'11 four door . Began life as a sahara with the 4.10,LSD and 'HD Tow Package' options.
Rear SB = 0.756"
Front SB = 1.256"
( the black Prothane bushings that are the weakest durometer are a fabulous upgrade to the OEMs after a few yearsfwiw + while on this subject. The 3/4" rear is perfect for heavier 4 doors and this bushing is more stiff than the stock but seems to wring the most out of the rear bars flexibility when stuffing or dropping it . This performance is so acceptable and predictive in the handling that it is the sole reason I have not switched to AntiRock SBs. I had beat down the OEM bushings after 75k and chanced these. I can totally predict road or offroad manners of the rear with the small stock bar that I lock down with RK links at both endsonly disconnecting the fronts when offroading. )
 
#10 ·
'11 four door . Began life as a sahara with the 4.10,LSD and 'HD Tow Package' options.

Rear SB = 0.756"

Front SB = 1.256"

( the black Prothane bushings that are the weakest durometer are a fabulous upgrade to the OEMs after a few yearsfwiw + while on this subject. The 3/4" rear is perfect for heavier 4 doors and this bushing is more stiff than the stock but seems to wring the most out of the rear bars flexibility when stuffing or dropping it . This performance is so acceptable and predictive in the handling that it is the sole reason I have not switched to AntiRock SBs. I had beat down the OEM bushings after 75k and chanced these. I can totally predict road or offroad manners of the rear with the small stock bar that I lock down with RK links at both endsonly disconnecting the fronts when offroading. )

learn something new every day :)


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#11 ·
Excuse me if this is a ridiculous question but I've been wondering for about 2 weeks if moving the rear swaybar to the front would allow the jeep to still articulate but offer sine stability Offroad? This has constantly been bugging me. I've looked and haven't found this question asked.
 
#12 · (Edited)
it's not a ridiculous questionat least when I first pondered it. I wondered why I had not considered that previously tbh.

Butif considering it I think the rear being half the size would cause less than endearing control up front and that is IF ( & I admit it is close to the same shape..) the rear bar could even be fit appropriately up front.
I think there are subtle yet significant bends differences in the front to allow proper clearance and travel and same for the rear although it is missing at least one if not two bends that I can detect .
The only real way to determine would be to take the hour or two it'd take to swap around the two bars & bushings and hook it up to see. Couldn't hurt anything by guinea-pigging your Jeep!
but I am gonna guess it won't be a viable connection.

front JK swaybar <nonRubicon to show shape outline>

Image



rear JK swaybar <shape outline>

Image



see the differences? I am just too lazy to go out and check but I have seen them enough to have a gut instinct that they aint the same in more ways than girth. if they were interchangeableI think Currie ,ORO TF could sell a single swaybar kit that the only difference was the torsional tolerance of the twist bar instead of arms and mounts for front/rear....
Image
 
#13 ·
#16 ·
A member tried making it work. Goodygotacuda iiirc.


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jeffery too lazy to search todayheh. ThanksKen. You stole my segue into," Heyas long as Ken is participatingmaybe instead ask him about the JKS adjustable end links he has tested and been runnin'.."ha! :wink2:

Yeah,I went out and it seems the width of the front is 42" - ish and the rear is 45-46"ish? I imagine it could be manipulated. I will search Goody's past effort as it sounds interesting; odd I didn't come across it a minute ago...
 
#14 ·
The JKS flex links alter the torsion rate. I run the yellow springs Auto part Suspension Vehicle Suspension part Car
which are for trail but great for DD. 60% the torsion compared to stock.


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#22 · (Edited)
The JKS flex links alter the torsion rate. I run the yellow springs View attachment 267969 which are for trail but great for DD. 60% the torsion compared to stock.


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sorry for breaking the topic real quickOP but want to mention to @kjeeper10 that I could see his ( awesome,btw) SL forged trackbar sitting just off screen image in your image there. 'Reminded me that I finally went thru the effort to press the DDB into the Synergy front trackbar so that I could compress my suspension ( ie- go offroad) again the other day. as I statednot much doesn't cost at least 300 bucks. Altogether this stupid little TB has about $350-$375 in it. absurdbut it is beef now that craptastic old polyurethane bushing is gone...
Image


you can see my superlift TB box down there at bottomlol. wish I could keep running it. what a deal for the $ they charge!
sorry,back to the topic at hand!
 
#15 ·
Wow I've never seen those.
I have both my front and rear off right now and I've been running it that way for about 2 weeks. It's much smoother over bumps but is a lot more tipsy turny. Trade off is worth it right now though. I'm thinking my worn out disconnects are causing a shitty ride. I won't be back home for about 2 weeks but I'm going to mess around and give it a shot. I understand it will obviously offer less control than the front onebut I'm use to running without any so it could possibly be a happy medium. You're probably right thoughas the shapes likely don't match up enough for it to fit.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Wow I've never seen those.
I have both my front and rear off right now and I've been running it that way for about 2 weeks:eek: *. It's much smoother over bumps but is a lot more topsy -turvy**. Trade off is worth it right now though. I'm thinking my worn out disconnects are causing a shitty ride. I won't be back home for about 2 weeks but I'm going to mess around and give it a shot. I understand it will obviously offer less control than the front onebut I'm use to running without any so it could possibly be a happy medium. You're probably right thoughas the shapes likely don't match up enough for it to fit.

*
Image


**FTFY:bert:
 
#18 ·
The JKS links are nice albeit expensive. At least now you can buy the springs separately. Before you had to spend $100 just for the spring pack with ones i will never use.

The links come with "stock" springs . Slightly less torsion then stock.
The spring pack comes with
Red (road) 45 %
Yellow (trail) 60 %
Blue (crawl) 75 %

Everybody i know runs the yellow springs. Jeep handles greatcorners fine but the front end feels less ridged over bumps.

Takes about 15min to swap the springs. I havnt run the blues yet.

http://jksmfg.com/i-22322737-flex-connect-sway-bar-link-kit-jk-wrangler-patent-pending.html




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#20 ·
The JKS links are nice albeit expensive. At least now you can buy the springs separately. Before you had to spend $100 just for the spring pack with ones i will never use.

The links come with "stock" springs . Slightly less torsion then stock.
The spring pack comes with
Red (road) 45 %
Yellow (trail) 60 %
Blue (crawl) 75 %

Everybody i know runs the yellow springs. Jeep handles greatcorners fine but the front end feels less ridged over bumps.

Takes about 15min to swap the springs. I havnt run the blues yet.

Jeep JK Flex Connect Sway Bar Link Kit




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thanks for that quality detailed infoman. I now don't have to read hardly anything about them=awesome!

anywaythe cost is not out-of-the-world overthetop; you know my opinion on all thisthere isn't anything REALLY that will run much less than $300 bucks for a JK. HonestlyI probably would have been an early adopter of these with the exception being that I literally would go insane from my OCD over having one side with a different sized/different link type . It'd bother me so much I could not run themthat is horribleisn't it? I think you can get a set but it would be two at $299 perunless I missed something. Besidesthat would be overkill. I still think they are a great idea and work as Ken you detail so effectively.
I would have to try the blue spring/red spring combopersonally ...
 
#21 ·
Haha yea a set would make the swaybar useless .. JKS did mention it though.


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#23 ·
Eh i should of took the time to fully stuff my axle here. I was concerned with the ATS and Yeti drag link.
Did not even look at the SL track bar or pitman.... Shit.
Auto part Engine Vehicle



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#25 ·
#27 ·
2010 2-door hardtop RubMyCorn factory rear sway bar:

.6750" / 17.13mm = 17mm swaybar (with .0025" coating thickness).
^^^ / ^^^ <-- Mitutoyo digital caliper in decent condition​



My guess is that the two sizes available are 17mm and 19mm (+/- tolerance+ coating thickness).

I dig SAE (inch) sizingbut I'd bet a dollar these are made in sillymeters.
 
#28 ·
2010 2-door hardtop RubMyCorn factory rear sway bar:



.6750" / 17.13mm = 17mm swaybar (with .0025" coating thickness).

^^^ / ^^^ <-- Mitutoyo digital caliper in decent condition​







My guess is that the two sizes available are 17mm and 19mm (+/- tolerance+ coating thickness).



I dig SAE (inch) sizingbut I'd bet a dollar these are made in sillymeters.

Wtf well shit. FT is making money selling 19mm swaybars haha


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